POPULAR GARDENING. 



October, 



In planting Crocuses and similar things, why 

 is the custom so common of arranging the bulbs 

 in rows or blocks ? Nature never arranges in 

 lines and squares, and we would do well to take 

 lessons from her in setting these little bulbs. 

 When I plant such things either in grass or 

 borders, I set them in irregular masses, allow- 

 ing these to die out through a thin sprinkling 

 of bulbs into nothing. When several colors 

 are used each one is kept somewhat by itself, 

 but is usually allowed to blend with the other 

 masses in their edges. 



October Sjth. My last Hyacinths for winter 

 blooming in the house and conservatory were 

 put into pots to-day. I never feel that I am 

 ready for winter until at the least some dozens 

 of these most charming and easily managed 

 bulbs are under way. 



Whatever the extent of the stock contem- 

 plated, I divide up my bulbs into about three 

 lots.and plant these then at dififerent times. 



HOUSE PLANTS. 



October is an important month in the window 

 gardener's calendar. It marks the beginning of 

 the in-door season of growth. Before the month 

 is past the plant windows should be furnished, and 

 a reserve of stock be found in the cold pit or cellar 

 for bringing in during the coming months. 



This is a most favorable season for rapid and 

 healthy growth in plants, as light, air and heat are 

 all easily provided now. Let this be taken advantage 

 of to the utmost, for securing to every subject a 

 large degree of vigor preparatory to the imtoward 

 condition of things which will follow later. 



Abutilons lift easily from the open ground; 

 count them among the best plants for both foliage 

 and flowers. 



Agapanthus. Beautiful in summer now they 

 must go to rest. Store in a dry, cool place, as in a 

 frost-proof cellar— it need not be very light — and 

 give a very little water occasionally. 



AmiNG. Look upon this as a great lever, for 

 getting up a momentum of vigor at this season to 

 carry the plants through the dark months. Air 

 freely, you cannot over do it. 



AsPinisTRAS. Shift such as are growing rapidly, 

 provided many roots show around the ball of earth. 

 No one fails with this plant. 



Azaleas now need light, air, about 50 degrees 

 of heat and careful watering. 



Bulbs. See article on page 6. 



Callas. Give ample sized, but not over-large pots 

 and rich soil; don't crowd the leaves. 



Carnations, Monthly . See Lifting . Those 

 grown over summer in pots, should with the lifted 

 ones, go into their flowering pots now. Pots larger 

 than 7 inches or less than 5 inches across, inside 

 measure, will seldom be wanted. Give moderately 

 rich earth, 45° to 55° of heat, plenty of air and 

 never excessive moisture. 



Chrysanthemums must have plenty of water; 

 a top dressing of old manure on the surface or else 

 liquid manure, occasionally ,until flowering is begun, 

 is very helpful to the bloom. Look out for cater- 

 pillars on them. 



Cyclamens. With warm light soil, and kept near 

 the glass these plants will do well. 



Daisies succeed as winter plants if grown in 6- 

 inch pots. Give plenty of sun, air and water; 

 allowed to get parched the red spider will soon 

 appear, to annoy you. 



Ferns. Keep in a cool window, with little or no 

 sun, water freely at the roots, but never over the 

 fronds. 



Forget-me-nots. Fine for a sunny window in the 

 winter. Get a-growing in ample sized pots of about 



6 inches across, keep in a cool place where it does 

 not freeze and give plenty of air until January. 

 Then begin to force them. 



Fuchsias for winter flowers, should be in their 

 final pots now. Light rich soil, sunshine, moderate 

 airing and freedom from insects are chief requir- 

 ments. When in bloom give plenty of water. 



Hardy Plants. The Dicenti-a spectabilis or Bleed- 

 ing Heart, Japan Astilbe, Lily of the Valley. White 

 Christmas Rose Hellebore Niger all succeed easily 

 in the window. Lift strong roots about Nov. 1st, 

 and pot, crowding the roots somewhat. 



Insects. Some there will be, for they come in 

 from the outdoor plants. Keep a watchful eye for 

 them; when discovered concentrate a pound of 

 pressure upon each one through the smooth side of 

 the thumb nail. 



Lifting Plants. Above all else retain every 

 root possible. A firm ball of earth about the roots 

 is desirable, but generally less so than is supposed; 

 it may fall to pieces before it is reduced to fit the 

 pot. Cut back the leading branches of rank grow- 

 ers, like Geraniums and Coleus, about one-third, 

 but do not prune winter flowering plants that have 

 been pruned throughout the season. Lift all kinds 

 before sharp frosts appear. 



Pot firmly, using good soil to fill up the spaces; 

 draining with pot sherds in the bottom of the pots. 

 Keep the plants well watered, closely shaded and 

 out of the wind for a week, at the same time 

 sprinkling the foliage lightly twice a day. Inure 

 them to the confined air of the windows or plant 

 house gradually. 



Palms need only the most ordinary treatment in 

 the window. But few ever fail with them. 



Petunias. These are gay winter bloomers. 

 Plants brought along in pots are the best. 



Roses. Lift and pot about the middle of the 

 month. They need fibrous, moderately rich soil, 

 partaking more of clay loam than sand. Provide 

 ample drainage. 



Tea Roses for early bloom, should be gradually 

 brought into the close atmosphere; when used to 

 it, allow no draughts to strike the plants. 



Keep Hardy Roses for spring flowers in the cold 

 pit until February. 



Shrubs. The Deutzia, Mock Orange, Lilac, Har- 

 dy Azalea and Japan Snowball all flower well in 

 the dwelling or greenhouse. Lift by end of month, 

 pot firmly in scant sized pots and subject to at least 

 one sharp frost, before bringing in to force. Do 

 not prune. Store in cold pit until forced. 



Verbenas. Old plants are not worth bothering 

 with to lift; strike new ones from soft cuttings. 



Violets . See lifting. Keep all the runners 

 trimmed, and give the plants plenty of air, and 

 light with a low temperature. 



LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN. 



Annuals. Early in this month seeds of Sweet 

 Alyssum, Candytuft, Centaurea, Clarkia, Callirhoe, 

 Calendula, Larkspur, Lupines, Mignonette, Nemo- 

 phila, Portulacca and Poppy may be sown for 

 spring flowering, whenever the ground is light and 

 dry. These will flower earlier, better and larger 

 than if sowing is deferred until spring. In the 

 South, all annuals but the most tender sorts may 

 be sown in October. 



Bulb Planting. See article on page G. 



Caladidms. Treat like Cannas. 



Cannas. Lift after the frost has hurt the leaves; 

 remove the tops and dry in the shade. Winter in 

 dry sand, in a cool place, away from frost. 



Dahlias. Treat hke Gladiolus, but store the 

 tubers in a frost-proof cellar, as one would potatoes 



Dibbling. If Pansies, 

 Hollyhocks, and other Har- 

 dy Perennials were sown 

 in August and September, 

 they will need transplant- 

 ing now. For this use the 

 dibble is a simple tool that 

 is so handy, every gard- 

 ner should employ it often. 

 For a few small plants a 

 dibble the size of a finger How to Use the Dibble, 

 but longer, made of wood neatly whittled to a point 

 will answer. In using, first make a clean hole in 

 the soil to receive the roots. Then with one hand 

 set the plant into the hole, holding it at a proper 

 height, with the other, prick in the dibble near hole 

 number one, as shown in the engraving, forcing 

 the soil that is between, against the roots. Do this 



so firmly, with one or two additional picks if neces- 

 sary, that in drawing on a leaf it will break off, be- 

 fore pulling up the plant. Unless the soil is quite 

 wet, water afterwards. 



EcHEVKRiAS. Take up, divide and plant closely 

 in shallow boxes of earth. Store these in any cool, 

 half -lighted place where it does not freeze, keep- 

 ing the soil almost dry. 



Flower Beds. By ])rotecting the finer ones with 

 canvas, or other covering, through frosty nights, 

 they will be handsome for the weeks of fine weather 

 we usually enjoy after the first sharp frosts. 



GLAnioLus. Take up after the first keen frost, 

 dry thoroughly, and store in paper bags away from 

 freezing and moisture. 



Hardy Plants may be divided and reset where 

 the soil is light. Paeonies especially, succeed much 

 better if reSet in the fall, instead of spring. The 

 same is true of hardy Lilies. All fall-transplanted 

 stock should receive a mulch of leaves or coarse 

 litter before winter sets in. for protection. Divid- 

 ing and removing hardy plants into fresh soil every 

 third year, is what they need for doing their best. 

 Improvements, such as draining, trenching, and 

 grading cannot be done at a better time than just 

 in advance of the fall rains. The soil then handles 

 lightly, and the weather is invigorating for work, 

 both important factors in such matters. Doing 

 these operations when the ground is sloppy, is up- 

 hill business. 



Lawns improve in this month, with its cool 

 weather and increased moisture. Mow regularly 

 but not very close ; they will be in all the better 

 shape next spring for it. 



Leaves must be cleaned up often, where regard 

 is had to tidiness. Either pile up to rot or to us© 

 ; for mulching, store for bedding, or if there is no 

 I other possible use for them, burn. 

 Lifting. See under House Plants. 

 Maueira Vine. Treat like Dahhas. 

 I Seeding down new lawns is yet in order if 

 I done at once. There is no better time for sodding 

 I than this. Uneven parts of the lawn may how be 

 I leveled up; if depressions, cut and rollback the 

 ' turf, not detaching it, fill in new soil to even up the 

 i place, returning the turf; if mounds take the same 

 '' course, except to level by removing surplus soil. 

 I Tidiness. Don't give the garden over to chaos 

 I with the first hard frost. Gather up the blackened 

 I plants; in lifting roots and other stock, level the 

 j surface afterwards a little, rake up leaves, and 

 so on, for enjoying order and beauty here during 

 the weeks of delightful autumn weather to come. 

 Tigridias. Treat like Gladiolus. 

 Tuberose. Treat like Gladiolus but winter In not 

 less than 45° of heat. 



Walks ANn Drives. Clean them of weeds, touch 

 up the surface with the rake, and attend to the 

 edges now, and their care will be about ended for 

 this season. 



Weeds. Many kinds grow rampantly in cool 

 weather. Keep watch to prevent this in borders, 

 the wild garden and every where else. 



PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS, 



Abutilons do better for being cut back occasion- 

 ally. 



Chrysanthemums need liquid manure, but less as 

 they show color, and none at all after the first 

 flowers are open; water freely. Thin the flowers 

 on plants that are to be cut from. 



Cinerarias need light, plenty of fresh air, free 

 watering and an occasional dose of liquid manure. 

 They cannot tolerate having their roots pot- 

 cramped. 



Climbers are indispensable; quick growing ones 

 like Tropaeolums. Passion Flowers and Jasminums 

 are to be recommended, because of the free-cutting 

 back they will bear, thus ensuring plenty of young 

 handsome-looking shoots. 



Dutch Bulbs. See article elsewhere in this issue. 



Hanging Baskets for winter adornment should 

 befitted up. A basket of drooping Ferns is ex- 

 ceedingly handsome. Any of the greenhouse droop- 

 ers will answer. 



Insects. Attack them promptly now, and they 

 will trouble very much less later; for green fly 

 or aphis, burn J^ pound of refuse tobacco for each 

 500 square feet of house from once to twice a week. 

 Dusting any affected plants with tobacco powder 

 will kill them quickly. Moisture created by syring' 

 ing is the safest remedy against red spider. Scale 

 and mealy bugs are easily destroyed by washing 



