30 Horse and Hound. 



be placed against a wall or solid fence, one end 

 touching same and the other end open, so that 

 if disposed he can pass around rather than over 

 the obstacle. I do not believe in teaching or 

 schooling a horse intended for use in the field 

 to jump only in a chute or lane. If merely 

 intended for a high jumper at horse shows this 

 chute plan is as good, if not better, than others, 

 but it will not serve in training for the field. 



The height of the jumps should be advanced 

 slowly and never during a lesson. 



It may seem folly to you to keep a horse 

 jumping at two feet when you know full well 

 that he can as easily clear three feet, and the 

 temptation will be very great to increase the 

 jump, especially if witnesses are present, but my 

 word for it, there are more jumpers ruined by 

 advancing too rapidly at this stage of the game 

 than at any other. 



When he jumps quietly, methodically, and 

 just at the pace you desire, you can increase the 

 height a little; however, at the first sign of *'sour- 

 ing" or "going stale," set him back in his les- 

 sons, decreasing the jump at least a foot, and 

 work up to it gradually again. Do not lose pa- 

 tience with him or fight and punish him. He 

 will naturally associate the punishment with the 

 jump, and either become afraid or nervous when 

 required to jump. A sharp rap with crop when 

 he strikes timber, followed by a caress and en- 



