Book II. CULTIVATION OF FARM ORCHARDS. 669 



to be pastured or dug, they may be planted in quincunx and close : but where it is to 

 be ploughed, they should either be planted in ro« s with sufficient space between for one 

 broad ridge, or two ordinary ones ; or they should be planted in squares to admit of 

 ploughing both east and west, and north and south. 



H07. The Hertfordshire orchardists recommend that the rows should extend from north to south, as 

 in that direction each part of every tree will receive the most equal portions of light and heat. The 

 distance between each row, as well as the space between each tree, should depend on the situation and 

 soil. Where the former is high and exposed, the trees should be closely planted to afl'ord each other 

 protection ; and where the latter is poor and shallow, their growth will of course be less luxuriant, and 

 they will consequently require less room. But in low and sheltered situations, and in deep and rich soils, 

 wider intervals should be allowed. In the former instances, twelve yards between each row, and six 

 between each tree, are sufficient ; in the latter, twenty-four yards between each row, and eight between 

 each tree, will not be too much. 



4108. As a general guide with regard to distance, Nicol states the extreme limits at which apple and 

 pear trees should stand, in a properly planted and close orchard, as from thirty to forty feet, less or 

 more, according to the quality of the soil, taking, as the medium, thirty-six feet In a poor soil and a 

 bleak exposure, where the trees may not be expected to grow very freely, thirty feet are sufficient ; 

 whereas in good soil, and a sheltered situation, forty may not be too much. Cherries and plums may be 

 planted at from twenty-four to thirty-six feet, according to soil and situation, as above, taking as a me- 

 dium, thirty feet for the ultimate distance at which they are to stand clear of one another. But it would 

 be advisable, in the first instance, to plant four trees for one that is intended ultimately to remain, 

 planting the proper kinds at the above distances first, and then temporary plants between them each 

 way. These temporary plants should be of the free-growing sorts that begin to bear early ; such as the 

 nonesuch and Hawtho'rnden apples, the May-duke cherry, and the Crawford and yair pears; or any 

 others known to produce fruit sooner after planting. These should be considered and be treated as 

 temporary plants from the beginning, and must give place to the principal trees as they advance in 

 growth, by being pruned away bit by bit, and at last stubbed up entirely. In bleak situations, if forest 

 and other hardy'trees be planted among the fruit trees, it may not be necessary to plant so many (if any) 

 temporary fruit trees; or these may chiefly consist of the hardier sorts, such as the Hawthornden apple, 

 the May-duke and morello cherries, and the Scotch geans, which produce fruit the soonest. 



4109. In the operation of planting, great care ought to be taken not to insert the plants 

 deeper in the soil than they were before removal. This is a very common error in every 

 description of tree planting ; and in retentive soils is ruinous to the tree. Sir C. M. 

 Burrel recommends, as a useful practice, in wet soils, or where the substratum is not 

 suited to the apple or the pear, to plant the trees on hillocks of easy ascent, as for instance 

 one foot higher in the centre than the level of the field, and sloping gradually to that level 

 for three or four feet every way from the centre. By tins practice, the roots will naturally 

 follow the good surface earth ; whereas, if they are planted in holes, the roots are apt to 

 shoot into the prejudicial subsoil, to the eventual injury of the plants by canker and other 

 diseases. When trees are thus planted on small hillocks, the under-drains may pass 

 between the rows with greater utility. 



Sect. III. Cultivation of Farm Orchards. 



4110. The trees being carefully planted, watered, and tied to tall strong stakes, require 

 little more than common attention for several years. Every autumn or spring they 

 should be looked over, and all cross irregular shoots made during the preceding summer 

 cut out, suckers (if any) removed from their roots, and side growths cleared from their 

 stems. 



4111. The object in pruning young trees, Nicol observes, is to form a proper head. 

 Generally speaking, the shoots may be pruned in proportion to their lengths, cutting clean 

 away such as cross one another, and fanning the tree out towards the extremities on all 

 sides ; thereby keeping it equally poised, and fit to resist the effects of high winds. When 

 it is wished to throw a young tree into a bearing state, which should not be thought of, 

 however, sooner than the third or fourth year after planting, the leading branches should 

 be very little shortened, and the lower or side branches not at all ; nor should the knife 

 be used, unless to cut out such shoots as cross one another. 



4112. After an orchard-tree is come into bearing, Abercrombie says, continue at the time 

 of winter pruning either every year, or every two, three, or four years, as an occasion is 

 perceived, to cut out unproductive wood, crowded spray, and decayed parts. Also 

 reduce long and outrunning ramblers and low stragglers, cutting them to some good 

 lateral that grows within its limits. Where fruit-spurs are too numerous, then cut the 

 strongest and most unsightly. Also keep the tree pretty open in the middle. If it be 

 necessary to take off large branches from aged trees, use a chisel or saw, and afterwards 

 smooth the wound with a sharp knife. In case old wood is to be cut down to young 

 shoots springing below, to make the separation in summer will be of more advantage to 

 those young shoots, though it is not a common practice, on account of the liability ol 

 many stone-fruit bearers to exude gum, when a large branch is lopped in the growing 

 season. Observe to keep the stem clear from all lateral shoots, and eradicate all suckers 

 from the root. 



4113. On a<j.ed trees that have run into a confusion of shoots and branches, and whose 

 spurs have become clustered and crowded, the saw and the knife may be exercised with 

 freedom, observing to cut clean away all useless spray, rotten Mumps, and the like useless 

 excrescences. Thin out the spurs moderately to let the air circulate freely among the 



