Book VII. CHEESE-MAKING 1013 



7031. As whiter-made butter is mostly pale or white, and, at the same time, of a poorer quality than that 

 made during the summer months, the idea of excellence has been associated with the yellow colour: 

 hence, various articles have been employed in order to impart this colour. Those most generally used, 

 and certainly the most wholesome, are the juice of the carrot, and of the flowers of the marigold, carefully 

 expressed, and strained though a linen cloth. A small quantity oi this juice land the requisite proportion 

 is soon ascertained by experience) is diluted with a little cream, and this mixture is added to the rest of 

 the cream when put into the churn. So small a quantity of the colouring matter unites with the butter, 

 that it never imparts to it any particular taste. 



70.32. The butter mist esteemed in London is that of Epping and to market in dishes, containing half a pound each, out of which 

 Cambridge : the cows which produce the former feed during it is taken, washed, and put into different forms by the butter- 

 summer in the shrubbv pastures of Epping forest, and the men of Hath and Bristol. The butter of Gloucestershire and 

 leaves of the trees and numerous wild plants which there of Oxfordshire is very good; it is made up in half-pound packs 

 abound are supposed lo improve the flavour of the butter. It or prints, packed up in square baskets, and sent to the London 

 is brought to market in rolls from one to two feet long, weigh- market by waggon. 



ing a pound each. The Cambridgeshire butter is produced 7031. The butter ojtlie moimiatni of Wales and Scotland, and 



from the milk of cows that feed one part of the year on chalky the moors, commons, and heaths of England, is of excellent 

 uplands, and the other in rich meadows or fens; it is made up quality, when it is properly managed; and though not equal in 

 into long rolls like the Epping butter, and generally salted, not quantity, it often is confessedly superior to that produced from 

 cured, before brought to market. By washing it, and working the richest meadows. Bad butterismore frequently the result 

 the salt out of it, the London cheesemongers often sell it at a of mismanagement, want of cleanliness, and inattention, than 

 high price for fresh Epping butter. of any other cause. Ireland would produce the finest butter 



7053. TheSuJgblk und Yorkshire butter is often sold for that of in the' empire, were it not for the intolerably filthy state of their 

 Cambridgeshire, to which it is little inferior. The butter of cows, and the want of cleanliness in their dairies. 

 Somersetshire is thought to equal that of Epping ; it is brought 



7035. In packing fresh butter, or butter salted only for immediate use, the leaves of cabbage, white beet, 

 or of the garden orache (.-/'triplex hortensis) are to be preferred. The bottom of the basket should be 

 bedded with a thick cloth, folded two or three times ; then a thin gauze, dipped in cold water, spread over 

 it on which the prints or rolls of butter are to be placed, each with one or more leaves beneath, and 

 smaller ones over it. The lowermost layer being adjusted, fold half of the gauze cloth over it, put in 

 another layer in the same way, and then cover with the remainder of the gauze. T he butter should be 

 put into tlie basket, as well as taken from thence, without being touched. 



70.36 Whet/ butter, as its name implies, is butter made from the whey which is taken from the curd, 

 after the milk is coagulated for the manufacture of cheese. It is chiefly made in those counties where 

 cheese is manufactured, and where it forms no inconsiderable part of the profits of the dairy. In the 

 county of Derby more butter is said to be made from whey than from the cream of milk, or from milk 

 churned altogether. . 



7IW7 Whey is divided into two sorts, green and white, the former escaping readily from the curd, while 

 the latter is freed from it bv means of pressure " There are different methods of extracting the whey. 

 In some dairies the whole whey, when taken from the cheese-tub, is put into pails or other vessels, where 

 it remains for about twenty-four hours; when it is creamed, and the whey is applied to the use of calves 

 ami pigs, which are said to thrive as well on it, after the cream has been taken from it, as before. The 

 cream, when skimmed off the whey, is put into a brass pan and boiled, and afterwards set in pans or jars, 

 where it remains till a sufficient quantity for a churning be procured, which, in large dairies, happens 

 generally once, but sometimes twice, in the week." In Ayrshire whey is given to horses. 



7038. Butter forming an important article of commerce as well as food, the legislature 

 nas passed various statutes respecting its package, weight, and sale. The principal of 

 .hese are the 36th and 38th of Geo. 1 1 1. 



Sect. V. Process of Cheese-viaking. 



7039. The production of cheese includes the making of rennet, the selection of a colour- 

 ing matter, the setting of the curd, and the management of the cheese in the press. 



7040. The milk fresh drawn from the cow is to be immediately strained into the dishes or shallow 

 troughs if these are used, in order to promote cooling, as the surest guard against fermentation. The 

 same object may be attained by repeatedly drawing off the milk from the coolers, and pouring it back 

 again. 



7041. To understand u-hat rennet is, and its uses, it is necessary to premise that milk is 

 no sooner taken into the stomach, than it becomes curdled by the operation of the gastric 

 juice, as every one who has seen much of infant children must have observed. What is 

 called rennet "is nothing more than the stomach of an animal in which the gastric juices 

 are preserved by means of salt. 



7042. The application of am/ kind of acid will cause milk to coagulate, as well as the infusion of several 

 plants, as ladies' bedstra'w (Galium verum), butter-wort (Pinguecula vulgaris, and others. With the 

 former plant the Jews coagulate the milk for all their cheese ; the Mosaic law prohibiting them to mingle 

 meat with milk, and rennet thev consider as meat. . . . . 



7043. The maw or stomach of ruminating animals, which admit of obtaining the gastric juice in a lev, 

 mixed state than those of others, and chiefly of a young calf that has been killed before the digestion is 

 perfected, is almost universally preferred as rennet. This bag or maw is cleaned and salted in different 

 ways 

 No-. 

 the 



salt over every part of it. Put it into an earthen jar, or otner vessel, ana iei ii Mam. uu« u. .»-.».,. , 

 in which time it will have formed the salt and its own natural juice into a pickle. lake it out ot the jar, 

 and hang it up for two or three days, to let the pickle drain from it Re-salt it place it again in , a jar- 

 cover it tight down with a paper pierced with a large pin, and in this state let it remain till wanted h. 



.. _i gallon ot water, witn inree or una nanuiuia ^. =— >, -■ — 



hour; strain off the liquor, and, having let it stand till perfectly cool put *'*««!*™5™ 



add to it the maw, prepared as above. To this is added a good sound lemon, stuck round with about a 



quarter of an ounce of cloves, which give the rennet an agreeable flavour ,„„„,), nf time rliirin<? 



7f45. The strength of the rennet thus prepared will increase in proportion to the length of ^iine during 



... . °.*'. ., ,. £■_ _ iii_. *„ v,„ ..,„,! *>.%- tho iiiirnr^t' » >i I ;.l ' lll.il 111 U. INI IK villi. 



