1046 



PRACTICE or AGRICULTURE. 



r.Mi-r in. 



Stench of the hre, dun-hi'Lor inj --llu-Ts.nt.-t I 



tntng x.ur, which whrn It 



h.-llMH-ns ETCftUj iniiin> t! | .- ■ 



7066. T*' festsenataw at wl I h ||m milk II kenl fn-ni the 



r. ul\ to l»- pal an i" drj . ■ •> matter ••) great Imports! 

 should be carefully attended to. I ht milk, * I 

 the cow, ought toM a* icon ■»• poulble cooled ■ 

 ..r Utucvn that and 80" 00 Psnrenhell 

 speedily, and to Aw llltaie the lepeTation at rising of th 



hen the 



that'bATe'bwan described *r» need, the milk *di cool in them 



modi sooner then In the m fbrmerlj Ui use. II 



the milk Is kept wanner than 56* of tempemtufe. It will not 



. <rhi< I. it >> thought necessary It 



'.'... i _. .1... ..V.„1.. 1_. »,. ha 



I unali quantity of * Iran cold * Bl 



the milk 



much ~~ 



th«- milk ivk.i>i warmer than S6< "t lemijersture, it 

 which it .v thought n« 

 Lhoulddoeren when the whole U to be formed Into cheese, 

 and the milk will won become sour, end acquire a bod teste. 

 If it b not bnught to near thai degreeol ummerature; butnT 

 it bcU Into a lower temperature than about SO* the milk ac- 

 qulrca an mriirid and unpleasant teste, ol which it cannot be 



n divested; ll does ; SP * e !!l !??« .» 



. [| j tofl and InadheslTe, the cuni difficult 

 , Kparaied from the whey, and the milk and cheese are 



.01 . i ,,, /, oaaewlated of warty ^* natural heat 



, ,, r from 90 to 95 degrees of tempera- 

 tun- and for that pm oat i thermometer ought bo he used In 

 the milk-houae. ed much warmer, the curd is 



tough, harsh, and ■ ■• much of the buttenu-eous 



matter i- melted, and goes off with the whey, and the cheese 

 becomes bard, dry, tough, and tasteless; and if the milk is too 

 cold when coagulated, the curd is soft, doe. not p.irt with the 

 aerum, and the cheese continues to he so sof t that it is w ith 

 difficult v that it ran be kept together. Even when the utmost 

 p dns are taken to extract the whey, and to give it solidity and 

 firmness, putrifying holes, which in dairy language are termed 

 •• eyes/ 1 whey-orops, or springs, frequently break out on the 

 cheese; and It tealwayssott, tough, and of an insipid teste. 



;i , | i tht ntUku compidely coagtdatcd, the curd is 

 broken, in order io let the serum or whey be separated and 

 taken off. Some break the curd slightly a: first, by making 

 cross-scores with a kniff or a thin piece of wood, at about one 

 t,r two Inches distance, and intersecting each other at right 

 angles ; and these are renew ed still more closely after some of 

 tht- whe ha* been di -charged. But others break the whole 

 curd rather more minutely at once with the skimming dish, 

 the hand, or any thing convenient; but they do nut break or 

 chum it,a> Is done in England. When this last method is 

 pursued, the wbey comes ori rather too white and rich, or with 

 too much of the '.ream at first ; but It comes most copiously, 

 and it is i>u)\ for a few minutes at first that the whey is too 

 rich. By the method firs) mentioned, the whey does not come 

 off so copiou 1> nor so rich at nr-t, as when the curd is more 

 rninuteh broken. 



7069." When the coagulant has been formed at a proper tempera- 

 ture t n-ither too cold nor too hot, breaking the curd minutely, 

 but gently and softly, -< ems to be most proper : for though the 

 whey i- a little too white at first, that is soon over; it comes 

 ott abundantly pure in a few minutes after ; and it flows more 

 copiously man when the curd is slightly broken at first, 'i he 

 advant geofa speed] discharge of the w hey, as it saves time, 

 and prevents the curd from b* coming too cold and acquiring 

 any bad teste or flavour (which it often contracts whenneg- 

 .1 at thru stage of the operation), is an ample compensation 

 for any small quantity of the oily parts that may come oft at 

 filSt breaking. 



7070. Bui if t'ic milk has been either too cold or too hot when 

 coagulat-d, I would recommend breaking the curd as slightly 

 and easily as possible at rir>t : if too hot, the whey naturally 

 comes on copiously, but it is too white, and contains a portion 

 of the butteraremis matter in the curd ; and the complete 

 breaking at first adds to ihat evil, and brings otl still more of 

 the oils substance from the curd, to the impoverishment of the 



e. Such quick agitation too tends to render the warm 

 curd -till more tough and adhesive. When the milk has been 

 too cold at the tim the cu d was fornvd, it will be by tar too 



to be minutely broken at first; and when that is done, 

 Kune of the curd «'ill come oft - with the whey : in that case the 

 i ard &l ..u il be di alt w ith as gently as possible. 



7071. tjhr tltr curd hat been broheu, the whey ought to be 



taken otl" as speed i y a ii can be done, and with as little further 

 breaking or handling th curd as possible. It is still necessary, 

 however, to turn it up, cut it with a knife, or break it gently 

 with the hard, in order to facilitate the separation of the whey 

 from the curd. 



;:Ci. When the curd has consolidated a tittle, it is cut with the 

 cheese knife, tenth at first, and more minutely a^ it bar . 



> v. VVhen the whey has lieen mostly 

 extracted, the curd i* taken up from the curd loyn, and leing 



i tint* -i ■ t of about two indies in thickness, it is placed 

 int.- or sieve with many holes ; a lid is placed over 



h, and a slight pressure, say from three tofbur stones avoirdu- 



poi^e ; and the < nnl is tnnieil tqi and cut small every ten or fif- 

 teen minul i I v. ith the hand so long as 



barge lerum. When no more w hev can i-e 

 drawn "tl b i •, the curd is cut as small as ]wssible 



n» Ith the V mtlty of salt mlnuteW mixed into 



it in the curd-bovn, arid placed in the che^sart within a sliiftof 

 thin canvas*, and put under the press. 



707S. W f hi to Ik lariitd on n'ith the Last 



jHMji/Vr daisy, and yet without preeJpUstlon. The sooner the 



removsd alter the coagulation of the milk, so much 



i . But it the curd is soft, from being set too cold, it 



requires more time, a eentlj dealt with; as other- 



wis* much of the turd and of the tat would go otl with the 

 w hrv. And when the i nut lias been funned too hot, the same 



notion Is necessary. Precipitation, or handhng the curd too 



roughly, would add to lb toughness, and e\pel still moR of 

 the oils matter : and, as has hern already mentioned, hot water 

 or whey should be put on the curd when it is soft and cold; 

 and cold water put On when the curd is BBt too hot. 



7074. After the cheese is put int.. th- presi it remains for the 

 first time about an hour, or less than two hours, till it is 

 taken out, turned upside down in the cheese-vat, and a new 

 cloth put round it e\ery four or six hours til! the flPffSt i» 

 completed ; which is generally done in the course of a day and 

 a half, tuo, or at most three days after it was rirst put under 

 the press. 



7075. The process of salting is very differently conduct* d in 

 the Scotch dairies from what it is in England. In Scotland, the 

 sail is minutely mixed into the curd after it has been rendered 

 a> dry as Dossible, and cut very small by means of the cheese* 



. has been already mentioned. This seems to answer 



the purpose just as well as the mode pursued in England, 10 1 e 

 afterwards described, which Is far more troublesome, and must 



be much more expensive, both in waste of salt, in apparatu 

 and in lal»our. The greatest defect 1 can perceive in the salt- 

 ing in Scotland is, that the salt is generally applied to the 

 cheese merely by guess, whereas it ought to be more carefully 

 regulated, flalf an ounce of salt to every English pound of 

 cheese, or at most thirteen ounces to twenty-rbux pounds 

 English, isa sufficient quantity. Too much salt renders the 

 cheese dry, tough, and hard ; and if a >ufficient quantity u» not 

 given, the cheese w ill become putrid. 



707o. Cheeses wade in Scotland axe never washed or greased 

 with butter, as is done in Cheshire. The Srots cheeses contain 

 the grease Internally, and not on the outside. 



7077. When the dueies in Scotland art ultimately taken fnmi 

 the press, and which is generally after two or three days from 

 the time they were first placed under it, they are exposed for 

 a week, to the drought and heat of the tanner's kit. 

 not to excite sweating, but merely to dry them a little before 

 thev are placed in the store, where a small portion ^>t' heat or 

 drought is admitted. \\ bile the} remain in the kitchen, they 

 arc turned over three or four tinit-s every day ; and whenever 

 they begin to harden a little on the outside, they are laid up on 

 the shelves of the store, where thev are turned over once every- 

 day or two days for a week or so, till they are dry ; and twice 

 even week afterwards. 



707S. The store -houses for cheese in Scotland are in proportion 

 to the size of the dairy, generally a small place adjoining the 

 milk-house, or at the end of the barn or other buildings, where 

 racks are placed, with as many shelves as hold the cheeses 

 made for the season. Where no particular place is prepared, 

 the ra<ks are placed in the barn, which is generally empty 

 during summer ; or some lay the cheeses on the floor of a garret 

 over some part of their dwelling-house- 



7079. Wherever the dieeses arestured, they are not sweated or 

 put into a warm place, but kept cool, in a place in a medium 

 state between damp and dry, without the sun being allowed io 

 shine on them, or vet a great current of air admitted. Too 

 much air, or the rays of the sun, v ould dry the cheeses too fast, 

 diminish their weight, and make them crack ; and heat would 

 make them sweat or perspire, which extracts the fat, and tends 

 to induce heaving. But a hen thi j are kept in a temperature 

 nearlv similar to that of a bam, the doors of which are not 

 much open, and but a moderate current of air admitted, the 

 cheeses are kept in proper shape, neither so dry as to rend their 

 skins, nor so damp as to rentier them mouldy on the outside, 

 and no partial fermentation is excited, but the cheese preserved 

 sound and good. 



7080. (>n ihe tomparatiictastc of iht- Scots and English cheese 

 it is difficult to oner any Opinion: there is not only such a 

 diversity in the teste, nut onh of cheeses made in difterent dai- 

 ries, at the dill", rent seasons of the year, stages of the cow's milk, 

 state of the weather, arid many slighter accidents; but there 

 is also such a diversity in the taste of the consumers, that it is 

 impossible to sneak with any degree of precision as to the 

 Standard of perfection of the taste of cheese. The taste of man- 

 kind as to cheese varies so much thai it is found necessary to 

 bring f rw.ird boh >o>ts and English cheeses, of different 

 sorts and ages, some sound and others unsound or putrid, and 

 to ask each lady and gentleman al table which thei prefer. 

 Do you eat Scots or English? coloured or whiter o.d or 

 new? sound or unsound? &C The taste of some is so 

 vmated, as to like l*e>t the putrid parts, which abound with 

 animnlcula, and touch 'he olfactory nerves befon they reach 

 the mouth; others |»refer that which is sound. The Scots 



Cht ' se i- g- neralh less smart, acrid, and pungent in the teste 



th.m the English cheese. It is not so high flavoured, owing 



probably to the inferiority of the pasture and climate, or partly 

 to the mode of manufacturing it. it is milder in the taste, and 



fi rail) fatter, than the English cheese. A small morsel of 

 audish chei oinnei may be better felt in the 



mi mlt than the stiff r and milder clitr>e of Scotland ; but if 

 anv considerable quantity is to lie eaten, the latter will not be 

 fell so hot ard heavy in' the stomach as the same quantity of 

 Knglish cl 1 1 



7081. Gloucester cfttesc is in very considerable demand from its mi)d taste, which suits most palates, 

 especially those of the young and of simple habits : there are two kinds, double and single, the first made 

 from the milk and cream, and the latter with the milk deprived of about halt the cream : the latter arc of 

 ( nurse the hast \aluabh*; I Ut ;js they may be often mistaken for the former, upright dairymen. Marshal 

 observes, impress a heart-shaped stamp upon them to distinguish them from the former. They are made of 

 various sizes, from twenty to seventy, nr even eighty pounds weight, but generally from fifty to sixty pounds. 

 Green t or sage-cheese^ la made by steeping ever night in a proper quantity of milk, two parts ol 



ne part ot marigold leaves, and a tittle parsley, after they have been bruised. On the following 

 morning, the greened milk is strained off, and mixed with about one third of the whole quantity intended 

 to be run or coagulated. The green and « bite milks are run separate!} , the two curds being kept apart 

 until they be ready for ratting: these may be mixed, either evenly and intimately, or irregularly and 

 fancifully, according to the pleasure of the manufacturer. The management is the same as lor common 

 cheese. Green cheeses are made in the vale of Gloucester, as also in Wiltshire 



