HOW TO TRAIN A COLT. 1G9 



a forty-clip with the lines held in one hand, or be lifted 

 over a five-barred gate with the strength of a single 

 wrist. If you don't believe it, try it, and see. Many 

 people prefer to put the colt beside an older horse, and 

 let him take the first dozen drives on the road in double 

 harness: and to this method I see no serious objection ; 

 although, for myself, I do not favor it. My colts are all 

 taught to go single first, and thoroughly taught at that ; 

 and I hold that this is the better way. But, if you pre- 

 fer the other method, be sure that the horse beside 

 which the colt is hitched is in every respect reliable and 

 well instructed ; because the colt will catch at, and be 

 sure to imitate, any vice or fault in the older horse. Do 

 not select a lazy, slow-moving horse for the service, 

 but rather a quick-moving animal, lively, but amiable. 

 A colt naturally starts quickly, and moves sprightly ; and 

 a slow-starting, slow-moving brute by his side will irritate 

 him. The older horse should be quick enough to start 

 the load himself, and keep it moving, so that the colt shall 

 not be unduly fretted and chafed : if not, the younger 

 horse has to start and draw the whole weight ; and in 

 that case his temper will get up, and you will have a 

 fracas. I know that some breakers love to get into a 

 fight with a colt, and " take the starch out of him ; " 

 but this is villanous conduct, and has neither necessity 

 nor reason to justify it. The true way is to avoid these 

 " fights " with the animal you are teaching ; and, by 

 the exercise of patience and kindness, give him time to 

 understand what is wanted of him, and make him love 



