THE horse's foot, AND HOW TO SHOE IT. 255 



"By this new mode of shoeing, all the defects and ac- 

 cidents attendant upon the old method are evaded." 



In another place he gives directions for shoeing good 

 hoofs on horses kept for general service, as follows : — 



" The shoes must not be too long, or project beyond 

 the heels, but only reach the bars; neither must the 

 hoofs, behind or before, be pared. The wall, or crust, 

 alone should be diminished in proportion as it may be 

 too long. This should be done evenly ; and neither the 

 sole nor frog must be cut : the latter should be allowed 

 to project, if possible, above the shoe, so that it may 

 come into contact with the ground. The shoe ought to 

 be about the same strength throughout, or a little 

 thicker and wider in the outer branch of the fore-foot, 

 and thin at the heels of the hind one. Be careful to 

 stamp the nail-holes on the same line, not in a zigzag 

 manner. The holes should not be too coarse, as there 

 is then danger of pricking the horse, or binding the 

 hoof with the stalk of the nail. The shoe should be 

 stamped coarser outside than inside, because it may 

 be necessary to leave it wider outside. Do not bend 

 the shoes in adjusting them, nor arch them: they 

 ought to be nearly flat ; though they might be slightly 

 curved, so as to preserve the wall of the hoof They 

 should also follow the outline of the hoof, — a little more 

 to the outside than the inside. When fitting, the shoe 

 should not be kept too long a time on the hoof, for 

 fear of heating it. With this shoeing we may travel 

 on slippery ground or grass land, in using for each 



