132 Life and Letters of Francis Galton 



Professor who gives me lessons is a delectable old man, quite an original, who has 17 (! !) 

 pipes in his room and who smokes to a corresponding extent. Tell Pemmy that there 

 is a splendid cathedral at Liraburg, almost unknown to Englishmen, — and B3fzantine 

 architecture with a touch of Gothic, just like the church of the apostles at Coin, only 

 much more splendid. By the bye in case that you should fancy any part of this letter 

 to be a " take in," I can assure you that I never was more in earnest in my life. 

 Having nothing more to say — with many thanks for your kind consent to my travels. 

 I remain Your affectionate son Fras. Galton. 



P.S. I have just opened to say that I have seen one of the professors here who 

 went a similar tour last year, and the one that we have together concocted is Frankfort, 

 Wiirzburg, Ratisbon, Passau, Linz, Vienna, Constantinople, Smyrna, Athens, Patras, 

 Ancona, Rome, Livomo, Pisa, Florence, Livorno, Genoa, Marseilles and Paris. 

 I have plenty of time. I could see this all very well, quarantines &c., and be back on 

 the 18th Sept., but I will take more time. [In pencil.] I start tomorrow at 7 in the 

 morning. In case of a letter from you crossing this Miller will take care of it. 



Francis actually set off on July 31st with Dr Meyer for Frankfort, 

 the Doctor having parted " Schmollens " fashion from several of his 

 fellow-students. The picture the diary provides for us is that of an 

 intensely happy boy — full of fun and feeling himself out for a bit 

 of a frolic truant fashion. At Frankfort, Francis began to drop the 

 unnecessary : " Left in a parcel 1 coat, 1 p'' trousers, Liebig's Chemistry 

 Part I., Liebig's Organic Chemistry and the handbook for Northern 

 Germany (1836) with the map torn out." He had time, however, to 

 "scetch " {sic!) very neatly in pen and ink the Katharinen-Kirche and 

 a general view of the town. The next stage is Wiirzburg, with some 

 careful pencil work sketches of the town, and here Galton fell in with 

 a travelling companion : 



"Aug. 2. Went to sleep on the sofa in the coiFee room and on awaking a scrubby- 

 looking little Hungarian addressed me in bad English, asked me my route and said that 

 we should be fellow travellers to Wien. Set off' at 12 for Ni'irnburg, a Lady being the 

 only other person in the diligence. The little Hungarian no sooner perceived a petticoat 

 in the diligence than he bellowed out for lanterns most furiously, l)ut notwithstanding 

 his exertions couldn't get one, so cursing awfully sat down with his eyes 3 inches from 

 the girl's face. On passing out we came close by a light which exposed the physiognomy 

 of the girl, and the Hungarian being satisfied commenced a most vigorous courtship. 

 He told me that it was quite necessary for me to make myself an ade[)t in the art, and 

 so I tried and with some success fell fast asleep. 



Auij. 3. Awoke and found him holding both hands of the girl and singing love 

 songs. I accordingly burst out laughing in which they both joined. I then began nvy 

 flirtation with much more success than my rival, at which his mustachios desponded and 

 looked sad. Arrived at Niirnburg at 12. Marie, for such she said was her name, gave 

 me a bit of an artificial flower that she wore, but would not let me crib some of her 



