Lelirjalire and Wanderjalire 133 



hair, because I had only a penknife to cut it witli, though she said had I had a pair of 

 scissors it would liave teen different." 



liatisbon and Walhalla followed, the sketchbook showing various 

 details of buildings, rafts, and country folk. At Passau the steamer is 

 found to be injured and on Aug. 6 Galton set out with Major Parry in 

 a boat with one rower to go down the Danube to Vienna, which was 

 reached on the 7th. In Vienna there was sightseeing, opera and 

 gaiety. Then down the Danube to Buda Pest and on to Semlin, 

 reached on August 13th. 



"Tlie natives beastly dirty, sheepskin clothes, wide full trousers, long greasy hair, 

 turned-up hat. Passed Peterwardein, anything but picturesque. Slept at Semlin 

 having first walked about the dirty town and up to the cemetery, whence is a very good 

 view of junction of the Save and Danube. It was too dark to see Belgrade well. [There 

 is a picture of Belgrade from Semlin by moonlight, Aug. 13.] Sang 'God save the 

 Queen' and went to bed loyal." 



Then by way of Sistova, Kustendje, Castle of Europa to Constanti- 

 nople, reached on August 22nd. There is little in the diary here but a 

 youthful traveller's impressions, a long description of the first Turkish 

 bath, the slave-market and the mosques, only seen fi-om outside. From 

 this first section of Galton's tour three home letters remain. The first 



is from Vienna : 



Vienna, Hurrah!!! Aug. 7, 1840. 



Stadt Frankfort Hotel. 



My dear Pater. It has just struck me {i.e. after having taken my place to 

 Constantinople — not before) that this expedition of mine is about the coolest and most 

 impudent thing that I have done for a long time. But I remember when about G yrs 

 old you telling Darwin and Erasmus of an exploit of yours in kindly offering to escort 

 some young lady (I forget whom) from Birmingham for a mile or two, and somehow or 

 other when once in the carriage you thouglit it better to go on to Bromsgrove merely as 

 a protection to her ; at Bromsgrove of course the same reason held good and so on to 

 Worcester. I thought it then a very naughty thing. Now from Birmingham to 

 Worcester is at least 40 miles and from Fraufort to Constantinople is only 2075 (I have 

 carefully counted them) a leetle more certainly, but not enough to matter, so please be 

 lenient. How I shall get scolded when I return ! But there is one consolation, viz. 

 tliat I go too fast for any letter to overtake me and disturb my serenity, when once 



started from here on Monday next the 10th. Now for my diary [Then follows the 



account of the flight from Giessen and the journey to Linz.] 



Splendid scenery, dark lovely piue-wood forests, many rapids and boiling sun. 

 Here you feel that it is the sun, it puts life into one and warms one quite into the 

 sublime. Bye the bye I am as nearly mad in that way as a person can possibly be 

 imagined to be, who does not actually turn down his shirt collar and go about without 

 his cravat. On arriving at Linz found that the steamboat was, as a waiter who tried to 



