 



The Reaivakening : Scientific Exploration 233 



Atigust 25. "South Africa." 

 (The lake I had heard about I went to; it proved to be a mere nothing, Omanbonde 

 is the name of it\ I did not try to get to Lake Ngami.) 



My dear Campbell. I have just returned to the most advanced missionary stations 

 after my exploring journey, which indeed led me through a country most desolate, 

 thorny and uninteresting. But the end of it quite repaid my trouble, for I came to 

 a peculiarly well civilised (if I may use such a word) nation of blacks where I was 

 received most kindly but beyond whose territory I was not permitted to pass. I had 

 arrived within • 4 days of a vast river, the wonder of these parts, and to which the 

 Portuguese traders reach, but it was impossible for me to go on. My waggons were 

 broken and left behind with half my party to guard them amongst a large tribe of 

 savages. My slaughter cattle were almost all consumed, and there was not nearly game 

 enough to support us. I had ridden forward the last 200 miles on oxen, and these 

 were knocked up and quite unable to stand more travel, so that I was in quite an unfit 

 condition to force my way further. It was therefore with no ordinary reluctance that, 

 like so many other African travellers, I was, when at my most interesting point, obliged 

 to turn back. Still I consider that I have completed the road from the Portuguese 

 boundaries to the Cape, for the small intervening tract of land which I have not seen 

 is well inhabited and well watered. My furthest point was Lat. 17° 58', Long. 17° 45'. 

 The nation I reached was the Ovampos, governed by a fat stern king. I crowned him 

 with all solemnity. His country is most fertile, broad plains, half corn, half pasturage. 

 Abundance of palms and other fruit-trees of magnificent size ; they have poultry and 

 pigs and live right well. I did not see a single person among them who shewed the 

 least appearance of poverty. They have more than one sort of com ; that which they 

 prize the most is, I believe, unknown in Europe ; it is certainly unknown in the North 

 and the East of Africa. I have of course brought plenty of it with viie. Their fowls 

 too are nice like Bantams, so I put a cock and two hens in a basket and made a man 

 carry it all the way back ; they thrive very well and are always laying eggs, which 

 I am distributing among the missionaries so as to ensure extending the breed. I cannot 

 say that we have had any real hardship, though the annoyances have been very great. 

 We were mistrusted from the first as spies and could get no guides ; the road was horrible 

 for waggons, dense thorns curved like fish hooks cruelly tore our clothes and hands, 

 the oxen dare not face them. However I got them on 300 miles, and then the best 

 waggon broke down. It was mended on ray return from Ovampo-land and we got back 

 safely. I have learnt a great deal about the interior of Africa which will much 

 interest those who care about such things. Now I have my hands full of Namaqua 

 Hottentots. I told you how I had been setting the afiairs to right in these parts before 

 I left, and all have continued in admirable order up to my return. One tribe had 

 however just broken out, so as soon as I came to the first Namaqua chief and heard all 

 about it 1 rode straight away 100 miles in a day and a half to the next chief (where 

 I am now) and tomorrow I take him back with me and the two chiefs are to ally 

 together and compel the rebel one to restore all that he has just robbed with much loss 

 of life. The barbarities that occur daily in these parts are most horrible and disgusting. 

 It was quite a relief getting beyond them to the Ovampos. If all turns out well I go in 



' See remark, ftn. p. 216. 

 P. G. 30 



