512 Life and Letters of Francis Galton 



than our journey. Eva's many good points as a companion have made it very pleasant 

 throughout) and Eschbaeh takes off all trouble. He trots us about and arranges everything and 

 I believe would be prepared to wheel us like two babies in a double perambulator. We have been 

 at least four times to the picture gallery, mainly to see those by Velasquez. Moreover we have 

 picked up pleasant acquaintances, and a half-English lady, who is married to a high Spanish 

 official, to whom I had a letter of introduction, has been most friendly. We gave her a drive 

 in a smart carriage yesterday into the Queen's private park and she comes here to tea at 4 to-day ; 

 we start for the railroad at 5. I have a little really good English tea, which we learnt that 

 she prized. She knows numbers of English persons whom I also know, and we much enjoy each 

 other's company and talks. Moreover she tells Eva about art matters and parasols, boots, etc. 

 The finances of the Spanish upper classes are seemingly greatly reduced through the war. An 

 English sovereign changes for 30 Spanish francs (pesetas) instead of the customary 25, so the 

 purchasing power of their incomes is reduced one-sixth by that cause alone. We failed to see 

 either the Queen or the King, but have done the palaces and all very thoroughly. The Premier 

 had had a long call at our friend's (Sefiora G. de Riano), just before we arrived to take her for 

 the drive ; she was however reticent on Spanish politics. We have a long railway journey before 

 us; the train starts at 6 p.m. and does not reach Barcelona until 11 a.m., where we shall have 

 dipped down from the highlands of Madrid, above 2000 feet, to the level of the sea and to 

 mosquitoes, of which we have not had one specimen since leaving S. Spain. Of course I have 

 engaged sleeping berths. Barcelona is said to be a beautiful place. In the bull fight here, that 

 I saw, one of the six bulls leaped over the barrier twice, among the people behind it. Also two 

 of the bull fighters were knocked over and one of them hauled himself clear of danger by laying 

 hold of the animal's tail and coming out between its hind legs. It was a terrible looking 

 business, but neither were really hurt and both did some very plucky feats after a little rest. 

 Two of the horses were lifted wholly in the air with their riders, all four legs being in each case 

 off the ground at the same time. A bull when he has been tired is not so quick as the quickest 

 of the men, who will let him rush at them without any red cloak or other thing to distract his 

 attention, but he seemed to me quicker than most of the men. Many bulls jump and bound in 

 the air like buck rabbits. It is a very strange scene altogether, and certainly a fascinating one. 

 I have ever so much to tell, but it would be tedious to you to hear details about places you do 

 not know. How I wish you had health and strength still to enjoy travel. Eva begs me to send 

 her very best love with mine to you and Bessy. I trust that Darwin's betterment continues. 

 What a pleasant outing Grace* seems to have had. 



Ever very affectionately, Francis Galton. 



42, Rutland Gate, S.W. May 13, 1899. 



Dearest Emma and Bessy, It was so very pleasant getting your letters when I arrived 

 here on Monday evening, but I wish, Emma, that your account of yourself was better. I have 

 waited writing, wanting to propose a day to come to Leamington, but things do so press and 

 I cannot even yet get through arrears. Besides, Eva goes home with her brother, Walter t, on 

 Saturday. I want her father J to lend her to me a good deal, and she wants to come. I wrote, 

 and so did she, a week or more ago to Sophy about it. Of course they are short handed at 

 Ettington, and it will be difficult for her father to spare her, but if she could make my house 

 a good deal her home and be with me again when abroad, it would help me a great deal. The 

 people I have talked to, insist that I ought to spend future winters in sunny lands ; that my 

 throat and cough are well-known ailments of advanced life, and that there is no option but 

 to go. 



Of course, I shall inquire further, but this prospect has to be faced, so I have arranged 

 gradually to drop my only two scientific ties to London, and to keep myself free to go next 

 winter. Then again, of the brief six months between now and then, I may be ordered to Royat 

 to give the throat more strength, for though all regular cough has long since gone, I feel the 



* Tertius Galton's wife. 



t The Rev. Walter Bree Hesketh Biggs, brother of Eva Biggs and of Sophy Bree, and 

 Vicar of Ettington. See our Vol. I, Pedigree Plate A in pocket. 

 J The Rev. George Hesketh Biggs. 



