14 



depend upon the size and vigor of the trees, but all wormy and 

 deformed fruit should be removed even to the extent of taking the 

 entire crop, for in the majority of cases such fruit only serves to 

 increase the number of insects the next year aud will not jMy the 

 cost of harvesting if allowed to mature. In thinning the grape all 

 small bunches should be removed if the fruit is intended for market, 

 as only large, full bunches will sell for good prices, and only a lim- 

 ited amount, depending upon the strength of vine, should be allowed 

 to remain on each cane. In vineyards at full growth from 10 to 20 

 lbs. of fruit will be all that each vine can mature and retain its 



vigor, 



PRUNING FRUIT TREES AND PLANTS. 



Most of our fruit trees are pruned too much. They are often 

 cut and slashed and the lower branches removed so that in a few 

 years we have trees with only branches and foliage at the tops, the 

 fruit requiring a 20 to 30 foot ladder to secure it, when by a little 

 foresight and light annual pruning the trees might have been kept 

 in good form with an abundance of vigorous, healthy foliage to pro- 

 tect the branches from the hot sun and drying winds and would 

 mature choice fruit. Every orchardist, and person having the care 

 of ornamental shrubbery, should carefully examine every tree under 

 his charge at least once annually, and oftener if possible, aud do 

 whatever pruning is needed, from time to time, to keep it in proper 

 shape and prevent a too close growth. A fruit tree will not bear a 

 large crop of choice fruit unless it has an abundance of leaves and 

 branchts and these spread over space enough to allow considerable 

 light in and about them. 



WHEN TO VRUNE. 



All things considered March is the best month in which to prune 

 deciduous trees and shrubs, as the sap has then become more active 

 and the wound will dry out less and heal over more quickly than if 

 pruned in the fall or early winter. 



TOOLS FOR PRUNING. 



For removing small branches near the ground the pocket knife 

 and hand shears are all that are needed. For heading in the grow- 

 ing ends of trees from 8 to 20 ft. above the ground, the pole prun- 

 ing hook (the Waters or other forms) is most useful, and for remov- 

 ing small suckers on the main branches a chisel on the end of a long 



