4 THE SIKKIM HIMALAYA 



Hindus. Great rivers have about them a fascina- 

 tion all their own. They produce in us a sense of 

 everlastingness and irresistibility. The Ganges, 

 more than a mile wide, comes sweeping along in 

 deep majestic flood from the far distance to the far 

 distance, on and on unendingly, from all time to all 

 time, and in such depth and volume that nothing 

 human can withstand it. In the dry season, when 

 it is low and the sun is shining, it is placid and 

 benign with a bright and smiling countenance. 

 Stately temples, set amidst sacred groves and grace- 

 ful palms, lighten the banks. On the broad steps 

 of the bathing ghats are assembled crowds of pious 

 worshippers in clothes of every brilliant hue. The 

 river has an aspect of kindliness and geniality and 

 life-givingness. Its waters and rich silt have 

 brought plenty to many a barren acre, and the 

 dwellers on its banks know well that it issues from 

 the holy Himalaya. 



But the Ganges is not always in this gracious 

 mood, and does not always wear this kindly aspect. 

 In the rainy season it is a thing of terror. Over- 

 head black, thundery clouds sweep on for days and 

 weeks together towards the mountains. There is 

 not a glimpse of sun. The rain descends as a 

 deluge. The river is still further swollen by the 

 melting of the snow on the Himalaya, and now 

 comes swirling along in dark and angry mood, rising 

 higher and higher in its banks, eating into them, 

 and threatening to overtop them and carry death 

 and destruction far and wide. Men no longer go 

 down to meet it. They shrink back from it. They 

 uneasily watch it till the fulness of its strength is 



