io A YEAR IN BRAZIL. 



We were first boarded by the custom-house officers ; then, 

 anchoring about noon, the P.S.N.C. agent came on board, 

 bringing letters, etc. 



At one, having bargained with a boatman to take us on 

 shore and back for five hundred reis a-piece (about 2s.~)* 

 we embarked a company of twelve and were landed 

 at the steps by the Praqa de Dom Jose. This square, 

 which is very fine, has an equestrian statue of Dom 

 Jose, and the place is called by the English "Black 

 Horse Square," from the colour of the bronze statue. 

 Having obtained a guide (for a milreis), we first went 

 to the post-office in the praa, for stamps and post-cards, 

 and next to the Posta Restante. We then visited the 

 markets, and passed through several fine streets, squares, 

 and public gardens. There are many tram routes, the 

 cars being sometimes closed like our ordinary cars, and 

 sometimes having rows of seats covered by an awning, re- 

 sembling some of the Manchester cars, but all alike drawn 

 by mules. The drivers think nothing of getting out of the 

 grooves and rattling over the stones, if they meet another 

 car on a single road, and have gone beyond the proper 

 passing place. There is also a service of omnibuses, which 

 run over the tram rails when the cars are out of the way. 

 As to the shops, the principal feature which struck me was 

 the great number there are displaying jewellery and all 

 kinds of trinkets. 



There are very many water-carriers and water-sellers, 

 who draw water from the public fountains into the most 

 picturesque terra-cotta jars, and then sit at the corners of 

 the streets, or in the markets, or pra9as (squares), and sell 

 it for a few reis a glass. 



The gardens are nice. There the graceful pepper-tree, 



* The Portuguese milreis is twice the value of the Brazilian milreis. 



