ARRIVAL AT RIO, AND JOURNEY TO QUELUZ. 33 



while the ceilings are of plaited bamboo. As the divisions 

 of the rooms only go up to the ceilings above which is 

 the roof of course every sound is heard all over the house. 

 On approaching from outside you see four doors. The 

 two centre entrances open into the bar and shop, where 

 every kind of article required by the Brazilian is obtainable; 

 out of this shop is the store-room, which has also an outer 

 door, and is the end of the house in that direction. The 

 fourth outer door admits to a passage, entering which you 

 see two cupboard-like bedrooms one within the other, 

 which have no light or air, except through the door into 

 the passage. In each of these rooms are two beds. Going 

 down the passage you reach the sitting-room, into which 

 open two small bedrooms, each with only one bed ; but 

 that takes up nearly the whole space. These rooms, at 

 least, have outer windows. Leaving the sitting-room, the 

 passage leads to the dining-room, the furniture of which 

 consists of a long table with a bench on either side ; and 

 out of this room are three doors, leading to the landlord's 

 private apartments, kitchen, etc. It seems the rule in 

 Brazilian houses to have endless doors to every sitting- 

 room. The cook and butler is a nigger, who always rushes 

 forward each time you come in to shake hands, as if you 

 were the only friend he had in the world. The master 

 stands by the table or leans his elbows on it, keeping his 

 hat on and smoking cigarettes all the time you are eating. 



To-day we three went for a walk along the railway 

 towards Queluz, and climbed a hill near the line about five 

 miles from here. The scenery was beautiful successive 

 ranges of hills to the horizon all round ; those to the north, 

 east, south, and west mostly thickly wooded, but from the 

 north to the west comparatively bare (campos). Far 

 away to the S.S.E. rose a very faint outline, which, I 



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