RIDE UP COUNTRY. 59 



hot in the cloudless sky. Reaching the summit of a hill, 

 we had a fine view down the valley of the Para for a long 

 distance. This valley, which is thickly wooded near the 

 river, is wide and tortuous, bounded by low hills, mostly 

 covered with grass or scrub. By this time, having only 

 had a cup of coffee, we were longing to discover some 

 kindly shelter where to obtain breakfast, and were, therefore, 

 glad at 12.30 to come across a small house by the road- 

 side. 



I had not before seen trees so heavily laden with 

 oranges as were those in the garden round that fazenda, 

 where there were also sugar-cane, castor-oil plants, and 

 gourds. We had a vegetable breakfast, washed down 

 with water, and an hour afterwards left for this place 

 (Cajuru). On the way I remarked many large hanging birds'- 

 nests (Ostinops cristatus, Gmel.), made of sticks, as well 

 as those of the Joao de Barro (Furnarius rufus, Gmel.), 

 a light brown bird which builds its nest, shaped like a 

 bee-hive, generally in the fork of a tree. The nest is always 

 made of mud, hence its name (barro = mud). We met a man 

 on horseback, who had no hands, only stumps of arms. Of 

 course, he begged.* I cannot understand how he managed 

 to ride, but he manipulated the reins somehow between the 

 stumps. We passed a tile factory, the only one I have yet 

 seen, though all the houses' and most of the huts are roofed 

 with tiles. The price at the works is thirty milreis per thou- 

 sand, whereas at Paraopeba they are from forty-five to fifty 

 milreis. Though these tiles are baked in a kiln, they are 

 not nearly so hard as ours at home ; in fact, they break 

 easily, and are very crumbly. 



We arrived here (Cajuru) at 5 p.m., August 3, and 



* A real " beggar on horseback." I know an example in England of a 

 gentleman who had neither arms nor legs, but was a splendid rider. 



