64 A YEAR IN BRAZIL. 



generally much more reverent in church than the great 

 majority of English congregations. The priest said the 

 people were suspicious of every one unless he took them up, 

 and certainly, after walking through the town arm-in-arm 

 with -his reverence, we were treated with more respect. 

 Our host, the captain, having desired our attendance at 

 dinner, we went off to him at four, and feasted on "canjica " 

 or boiled maize, and " mocata " or rice and cow-heels. 

 After this repast we went to the priest's house to spend the 

 evening. 



Paraopeba. 



August 14. To conclude the account of my ride up 

 country. I told you of the Sunday (August 5) we spent at 

 Cajuru, mostly under the roof of the excellent priest, to 

 whom I took a great liking. He is of an amiable and 

 gentle disposition, with a very calm and pleasant face* 

 though he can be stern when necessary ; he is pretty well 

 read, can talk very pleasantly, and is not a bigot. 



August 6, Monday. We left about eight to ride to Sao 

 Gongalo. When just leaving Cajuru, I remarked a woman 

 with a full water-pot on her head, who had the biggest 

 goitre I have ever seen ; it hung down from her throat at 

 least six inches on either side. The people about here 

 appear greatly afflicted by these goitres, but, so far as I 

 have seen, only the women, and not the men.* 



In a little under two hours and a half we reached the 

 Fazenda Fructuoso, at the end of the third section, and not 

 far from the camp we visited on Saturday. The family 

 were just sitting down to breakfast, and, after the usual 

 invitation to alight, we were requested to assist at the meal, 

 and a capital one it was ; I never had a better chicken, 

 sucking-pig, with the usual etceteras, and " aipim," a kind of 



* In other localities I have seen both sexes with goitres. 



