RIDE UP COUNTRY. 73 



to explore the newly proposed Peixe Valley route. Our 

 guide was an elderly grey-haired man, but very strong and 

 sturdy ; he was on foot, and shoeless, but he set out at 

 a rapid though steady pace, which he kept up the whole 

 distance to Capella Nova. He often goes about as a courier, 

 carrying letters and money, and is always on foot and alone. 



Just after leaving Rio de Peixe, we met a party of 

 thirteen men, women, and children on horseback, going 

 to a wedding ; and I must confess the bride did not look 

 over joyful. We rested on the way and had some delicious 

 red lemons, while we watched some niggers uprooting yams 

 and mandioca. In one of the forests we saw a " sagui " or 

 marmoset, a lovely little brown creature. We arrived at 

 Capella Nova at 3.45, after a very pleasant ride ; but, as we 

 expected, did not find the colonel's route a good track 

 for the railway. It would require several tunnels, besides 

 ascending and descending grades of a far greater per- 

 centage than could possibly be employed, so there was no 

 need to go over it with an instrument. 



Arrived at Capella Nova, as there was no house large 

 enough to receive us all, we divided into two parties. My 

 division did not alight at the Italian's where I stayed the 

 last time, but at another wine-shop. I had my dinner in 

 public on the shop counter, and then had to make peace 

 with my former host by telling him I wished to divide my 

 custom. 



We were given an old cabin to sleep in. I went to see 

 it, and refused to stay there ; it was too frightfully dirty. 

 I then went and took possession of a new unfurnished 

 house the chief lent me a cork mattress and, with my 

 saddle-bags for a pillow, and my old rug and poncho for 

 coverings, passed a most beautiful night, going to bed 

 at 8.30. 



