A YEAR IN BRAZIL. 



mules ; therefore, with the sprouting of the new grass, 

 business is resumed. October 16 was the first day I 

 noticed the increased activity. On reaching the high-road 

 on the way to work, we passed two carts, each drawn by 

 twenty oxen ; and then about a hundred mules, all going 

 down, under the escort of some niggers, to Carandahy, to 

 be laden with salt and other merchandise. Now, every 

 day from our work on the hills, whence we overlook a mile 

 or so of the road, we see a continuous line of three, four, 

 or more ox-carts wending their way at a snail's pace to the 

 accompaniment of that heart-rending humming screech, 

 increased by the yells of the cruel drivers, whom I have 

 before mentioned. There are also teams of a dozen or 

 more pack-mules, the leading mule having generally a 

 brave headgear of silver or bright metal, hung with many 

 bells, gaily coloured tassels, and generally a little dressed- 

 up doll between its ears, supposed to represent the Blessed 

 Virgin Mary. The bells jingle pleasantly, and these 

 various sounds are increased by the cheerful songs of the 

 nigger drivers, carreiros and tropeiros, interspersed with 

 invectives and directions to the animals to "gee up," keep 

 to the road, take the lower or higher track, go to the left 

 or right, etc. The niggers' songs are a sort of wild, weird, 

 tuneless howl, or series of yells ; but as they say the oxen 

 would not go without the music of the wheels, I suppose 

 they think the mules would make no progress without their 

 soul-stirring melodies. 



October 27. Major Joao Ferreira do Cortume, whose 

 illness of over three years I have before referred to, died 

 to-day, and I have been invited to attend the funeral to- 

 morrow, of which I will write you an account in my next. 



October 28. The major owned the country round for 

 a great distance, including the ground I am encamped on. 



