BEGINNING OF THE RAINY SEASON. 103 



bier, and also some thirty horsemen. All uncovered their 

 heads on leaving the house, and a weird kind of chant was 

 sung by the men for some two or three hundred yards. 



We rode about eight miles to the chapel at Olhos 

 d'Agua, the procession increasing in numbers as we went 

 along, until at length we were some forty footmen and 

 seventy horse, while other friends from Brumado met us 

 near the cemetery. Two incidents occurred on the march : 

 one, the slaughter of a snake (jararacussu} ; the other, a 

 mule rolling over twice with his rider, who did not appear 

 any the worse. 



When we reached the Rio Camapuao, we found it 

 tremendously swollen from the very heavy rains of last 

 night. The ruined bridge had been repaired on purpose, by 

 having a few new sticks and sods laid down ; but, of course, 

 we led the horses over, as it was not very safe. Finally 

 we reached the cemetery at 1.30. I had been very kindly 

 received all along the route, and was greeted with dozens 

 of handshakings and compliments when I arrived. I stayed 

 outside the churchyard, as did all except the family, who 

 went into a house by the church. The coffin was put into 

 an alcove, the two ribbons which alone held the cover were 

 untied, the lid opened, and the corpse exposed to view. 

 The departed major was dressed in a long black garment 

 down to the ankles, white stockings, black shoes, and a 

 white cloak ; his head lay on a pillow covered with native 

 lace work. At the head of the coffin were placed a crucifix 

 and two lighted candles. During this lying in state, the 

 family (men only went) received their friends in the house. 

 Shortly a band of fifteen men, who had been for some time 

 tuning up, came and discoursed melancholy music, much 

 out of tune, but in tolerable time. 



At length, the three priests who were to take part in 



