BEGINNING OF THE RAINY SEASON. 115 



trying to lean against the wall without coming in contact 

 with the stirrups and girths of some saddles suspended 

 above. We furnished two candles in beer-bottles to illumi- 

 nate the assembly, placing the lights on the floor in the 

 midst ; the remaining space being taken up by mine host 

 and his wife, their six children, her two brothers, one 

 sister, a brother-in-law, and a few neighbours and children. 

 Our men all stood outside at the door. The "violao" 

 (guitar) was then tuned up, and the three sisters sang in 

 harmony. 



One thing struck me, that whereas in conversation the 

 natives are so emphatic with gestures that one can almost 

 understand everything they wish to convey to your mind 

 from the acting alone, the singing was without move- 

 ment or spirit, and nasal ; the guitar was wiry, but the 

 performers kept good time, and the entertainment was 

 pleasant. Of course, the songs all referred to the tender 

 passion, and some were rather amusing. 



Between whiles I talked to the old man, who is the 

 most intelligent person among the lower orders that I have 

 come across, and, having been a schoolmaster, is well read 

 on many matters. We spoke of slavery ; he is in favour of 

 the gradual emancipation scheme. An uncle of his had by 

 will released his thirty-four slaves at his death. He told 

 me that occasionally, at sixteen or eighteen years' interval, 

 there is snow at Casa Grande a finger's thickness ; but, of 

 course, it melts in the daytime. He talked of England 

 and the " Lady Victoria " with great respect ; he esteems 

 the Queen very highly. He wished to know all about our 

 English fazendeiros, or farmers, as he heard they were 

 very rich. I told him something about our farmers and 

 landowners and their increasing difficulties, especially 

 owing to the spread of democratic principles, and explained 



