LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES. 163 



to them an outer kitchen, where was an oven for their use ; 

 but they preferred to use mine, though they did their own 

 cooking, having arranged everything with my old beldame, 

 with whom they were immediately on the best of terms. 

 I had also arranged that they were to have their meals 

 whenever they chose, but that I must have mine separate. 

 To this they would not consent, but said I must breakfast 

 with them this morning, to which, of course, I was obliged 

 to submit. They had a filthy stew, reeking of garlic, com- 

 posed of baccalhao (salt codfish), rice, and feijoes. You 

 have no idea how repelling these black beans look before 

 one is accustomed to them. There were also " repolhos," 

 or greens, and farinha. I had not thought of supplying 

 them with wine, but as I was with them I could not keep 

 the bottle to myself. Fortunately only five of them were 

 present at breakfast, so we only drank the one bottle of 

 red wine, which was all I had in the house, and which they 

 much appreciated. Oh, the loathsomeness of that meal, 

 especially when one's mind wished to dwell on the awful 

 tragedy we then commemorate ! eating with fork, or 

 spoon, or fingers, spitting out bones, etc., on the floor ; and 

 finally, at the end of the meal, came the last straw, when 

 every one went to the pipkin of water in the corner of the 

 room, took out half a tumblerful, rinsed their mouths, and 

 spat it all out on the mud floor anywhere, just where 

 they stood. 



They all went out about eleven, and I had a nice quiet 

 time till 2.30, when they began to return, dropping in by 

 twos and threes, and we had dinner together at 5.30. 



There was no service here to-day, which I consider 

 extraordinary, especially as there are now four priests in 

 the town. I asked Padre Antonio why he did not have a 

 Mass of the pre-Sanctified, and he shrugged his shoulders. 



