504 A YEAR IN BRAZIL. 



CHAPTER X. 



LAST DAYS IN BRAZIL. 



Ascent of the Corcovado. 



July 6. After church I went for a cup of coffee and a 

 little loaf to the Carioca Cafe", and then jumped into 

 a Larangeiras tram-car en route for the Corcovado. I was 

 told by some Brazilians afterwards that no one but a mad 

 Englishman would think of going on such an expedition, 

 firstly, on foot all the way when a horse could have been 

 hired ; secondly, in the heat of the day ; thirdly, in top 

 hat, frock-coat, and Sunday-go-to-meeting attire. How- 

 ever, I did it. For some two miles from the heart of the 

 city the cars go southwards on the Botafogo Road, and then 

 turn to the right at a square called Praa do Duque de 

 Caxias, where are some very fine avenues of palms of a 

 great height. The cars proceed thence up the Rua das 

 Larangeiras, which is quite lovely with well-built and gaily 

 painted houses in the midst of most beautiful gardens, and 

 the road is lined by huge wide-spreading trees covered with 

 hanging lichens ; while between sunken walls on the left 

 of the road flows a shallow stream, which is crossed by 

 little wooden bridges to the garden gates of the various 

 houses. As one proceeds, the road winds about and ascends 

 slightly through a gradually narrowing valley, bounded by 



