222 A YEAR IN BRAZIL. 



enchanted by such animated and magnificent spectacles of 

 prodigal intertropical nature, passes over two hours without 

 knowing it, receiving every moment the most agreeable 

 impressions never before realized." * 



I had the misfortune to leave my little coffee-stick be- 

 hind me at Petropolis, but wrote on board the steamer to 

 Mr. Mills, asking him to send it ; and two days afterwards 

 had the pleasure of once more gaining possession of it by 

 calling at the office in Rio. Wonderful to relate, in this 

 city of extortion, it came down free of charge ! 



July 25. The Valparaiso, which is timed for to- 

 morrow, has not yet been telegraphed ; and so, having 

 finished packing in anticipation of leaving Brazil to- 

 morrow, I set off with Bithell for Tijuca, another of the 

 places near Rio which every one ought to visit. We went 

 by tram as far as we could, along a picturesque though 

 perfectly flat road, lined by many handsome houses in 

 detached gardens, or large pastures with groves of wide- 

 spreading and lofty mangoes. An hour's drive brought us 

 at i p.m. to Andarahy, at the foot of the mountain whereon 

 is Tijuca ; and, there being no diligence up to the village 

 at that time of day, we ascended on foot, under the most 

 grilling sun, along a very picturesque road, but, un- 

 fortunately, without much shade ; and at length we gained 

 the top of the pass, where there is a stone with the level 

 35croi metres (1148 feet) cut on it. Passing through the 

 lovely village, we most thankfully came to an anchor at 

 Whyte's Hotel by 2 p.m. After " refrescos " of lemonade 

 with a dash of whiskey in it, we telephoned to the office in 

 town, and heard there was still no tidings of our vessel ; and 

 so, while lunch was being prepared, we went for a saunter 

 through the lovely grounds. The heat was so great and 



* " Guia do Viajante no Rio de Janeiro," 1882. 



