Midsummer at the Wells of Dee 



river disappeared. It could be seen that some time during 

 the past winter or spring — probably during the melting of the 

 snows — the river had been flowing over, as well as beneath, 

 the snow, for on the latter much gravel was lying, and the 

 snow had been eaten away by the action of the water, so that 

 it now showed a curiously uneven surface. The remains of 

 a cornice of snow still fringed the plateau here, and after 

 emerging from its snow tunnel the Dee, a few yards down 

 the steep rocky face of the Fuar Garbh Choire, again dis- 

 appeared beneath ice and snow, and did not emerge till near 

 the foot of the rocks. 



Across the Garbh Choire, Cairn Toul was beautifully 

 clear. Lochan Uaine, nestling in its north-facing corrie, lay 

 absolutely still — ^there was not the faintest of airs to ripple its 

 surface. Even at this late season all the corries held much 

 snow, and in the soft light presented a singularly fine appear- 

 ance. A hen ptarmigan with her brood at the side of the 

 Dee showed the most remarkable solicitude on behalf of her 

 family. She actually flew straight at my head, and when I 

 hastily ducked to avoid the impact, ran round my feet only a 

 few inches away, nor would she move for the space of several 

 minutes. From time to time she uttered a hoarse croak — 

 quite unlike the call of the cock — and followed me across 

 the snow till she had seen me well away from the vicinity 

 of her brood, which, as a matter of fact, had not shown them- 

 selves once. 



From the Dee to the summit cairn of Braeriach the going 

 is very rough ; great granite boulders lie everyw;here. It is 

 rare to stand on an exposed ridge 4,248 feet above sea level 

 with the air entirely still, but to-day a wonderful peace and 

 quiet pervaded the high tops, and I have never known the 

 hills hold more charm. 



Curiously enough, although at the Wells of Dee Silene 

 acaulis was in full bloom, the extra 250 feet from there to the 

 summit seemed to give a much colder climate, for at the latter 

 point — ^and even here the plants were healthy and numerous 



83 



