Wanderings of a Naturalist 



few passengers on board slowly recovering from the effects of 

 the unusually rough passage. For many days the wild and 

 unsettled weather continues, then at last an extensive anti- 

 cyclone spreads over the whole of the western islands, the 

 wind drops to a faint breeze, and hill and island stand out 

 once more in the clear sunny air. 



Dawn is just breaking, and the Barra hills stand out as 

 black as night against the bright sky as the steamer leaves 

 her moorings at Castlebay. The breeze is from the north this 

 day, and even when we reach the open Atlantic the sea is 

 smooth and without the slightest swell. We pass the herring 

 fleet at the fishing banks, the bright lights of the drifters 

 showing from afar through the clear air. In the early morn- 

 ing sun the Island of Tiree looks at its best, the grass, 

 watered by the heavy rains, of an emerald green, with long 

 white sands in striking contrast in the foreground. From 

 here one can see all the hills of Mull stand out, Ben Mor 

 alone catching the soft mists that so often lie about the fringes 

 of the Atlantic. For a while this conical hill-top stands above 

 the white sea of mist, then, gradually, imperceptibly, the 

 clouds rise until the whole hill is blotted out. Far to the 

 south, and rising from behind lona, are the hills of Jura, 

 with soft clouds clinging to their slopes. Northward are the 

 hills of Rhum, and near that island the rocky Sgurr of Eigg. 

 How different from the scene a few short days ago, when 

 there was nothing visible save a grey expanse of wild waters, 

 through which in isolation the ship threaded her way. To- 

 day, with bright sunshine and a calm sea to cheer them, the 

 passengers in the boat talk animatedly to each other in the 

 Gaelic tongue, and a piper paces the deck, his pipes in fine 

 trim and playing many lively marches, strathspeys and reels 

 in quick succession. Around the ship porpoises play, and 

 gannets search the waters with keen eye, now and again 

 abruptly pausing in their flight to dive corkscrew-wise to the 

 sea beneath them. 



South-east, and lying between us and Mull, is the group 



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