In Hebridean Waters 



of the Treshnish Isles, which have already been mentioned 

 in previous chapters. From whatever aspect they may be 

 .viewed, these islands are of great charm, and this clear morn- 

 ing they were seen at their best. Outermost of the group, and 

 standing full exposed to the Atlantic seas, is the Dutchman's 

 Cap (Bac Mor). Then, in succession, bearing north-east 

 from it, are the long, grassy Isle of Lunga, with its little hill 

 near the centre; low and heather-clad Fladda, where lobster 

 fishermen make their home during the season of summer; 

 and the minute fortified island of Carn a' Burg, where the 

 chiefs of the Macleans in former days had their stronghold. 

 In even earlier times records prove that as far back as 1249 

 the island was in the possession of the Norwegians. Under 

 the Macleans, Carn a' Burg successfully repulsed an attack 

 by an English fleet, but the fortress was finally taken and 

 burnt. 



Many of the books and records from lona were at the 

 time deposited on this island as a place of safety, and although 

 the majority of them were probably destroyed, there is a 

 local tradition that certain of these historical documents still 

 lie buried somewhere on the island. 



Near Kilchoan the mail-boat passes close to the cliffs of 

 Ardnamurchan, where herons nest, and even at this late 

 date some of the birds can be seen sitting on their nests. 

 Clouds are now obscuring the sun ; on the Mull hills the mists 

 are gathering, and when, late in the afternoon, Oban is 

 reached the distant hills show that dark blue appearance 

 foretelling the approach of rain. 



For the night the steamer lies at her moorings, but at 

 daybreak she again sets her course for distant Barra, and 

 foul weather as in fair, winter as in summer, she is abroad 

 upon the wide ocean, and unusually heavy must be the 

 storm that prevents her from making the passage between 

 civilization and its remote and misty outposts, the Outer 

 Hebridean Islands. 



89 



