Wanderings of a Naturalist 



beyond the Black Rock lay the two low islands known as 

 Innishkea South and Innishkea North, and between them and 

 the mainland of Blacksod Point a skiff was sailing her way 

 out to the islands, the sun shining full on her brown sails. 

 Very primitive are the people of these islands, where, till 

 recently, they were accustomed to elect a king, having in his 

 hands absolute power. 



There is no peat on these islands — it has to be carried out 

 in boats from the mainland — and to-day near the straggling 

 village I made out through the glass what I took to be stacks 

 of peat standing near the shore. On Innishkea North I could 

 distinguish the whaling station, idle during the war, and 

 away beyond that again and bearing east, the watch-tower 

 of Blacksod Point. Far to the north Eagle Island and its 

 lighthouse caught the rays of the sinking sun which was 

 tingeing the spray from the Atlantic surf. 



Sailing on powerful wings across the precipice above me 

 was the dark form of a raven. Every now and again he shot 

 into a cleft in the rock, and I imagine he was inspecting his 

 nest. From a rocky pinnacle a peregrine sped out over the 

 sunlit ocean with magnificent flight. A little later on I came 

 across him perched on a rock and enjoying the unwonted 

 sunshine and quietness of the day. Through the glass every 

 feather showed distinct — his white cravat and his beautiful 

 plumage. His keen eye, glistening in the sun, scanned the 

 rocks and sea beneath him, and on my approach he sailed 

 out, and on wings which remained absolutely motionless 

 crossed to a far fK>int on the hill, where he alighted on a steep, 

 rocky slope. 



Everywhere along the foot of the cliffs the powerful 

 Atlantic swell was leaping with slow and ponderous motion, 

 giving one the impression of tremendous strength, and in the 

 ear was always the roar of the water. I wondered where these 

 great waves had their birth — I imagine in mid-Atlantic, a 

 thousand miles to the south-west, perhaps even more. 



Amongst the dark caves of Croaghatin the grey seal 



'74 



