The Aran Islands 



the Twelve Pins of Connemara, stood out clearly to the north, 

 with just a sprinkling of snow on their summits; beyond them 

 again, and nearly forty miles distant, I imagined I could 

 make out the high hills which rise from about Killary — a 

 district where it is said the golden eagle still lingers and 

 where the raven still croaks among the rocky corries which 

 guard Glen ErrifF. 



To the south the Clare coast stood out distinct, and one 

 could see the high cliffs at Doolin Point against which the 

 Atlantic surf beats continually and throws up the white salt 

 spray even to the summit of the rocks. North-west lay the 

 small group of reefs known as the Skird Rocks, many of 

 them submerged at the full of the tide, and the group remind- 

 ing one somewhat of the Torrans lying off the west coast of 

 the Isle of Mull. On the Skird Rocks many grey seals have 

 iheir haunt, and in summer those rocks which rise above 

 high-water mark are tenanted by countless numbers of sea 

 birds. I believe that the name Skird is a corruption of the 

 Gaelic word Sgeir, meaning a rock, but throughout the west 

 of Ireland, although the old language still persists, the present 

 names appear now to be much further removed from the 

 originals than in Scotland. 



It was after midday when we approached our first calling- 

 place — Innishear. A fresh breeze was now blowing from 

 the north-west, but the sea was still blue and no heavy waves 

 were running. As we heaved to, great activity was visible 

 on a fine sandy beach on the north-west of the island, and 

 we could see the light boats being run into the surf and 

 pulled out rapidly towards us. These boats, or curraghs 

 as they are called, are peculiar to the Aran Islands and the 

 coast of Clare adjacent to them. In appearance they are 

 canoe-like — long, deep and narrow, and with the bow raised 

 high out of the water in order the better to ride over the 

 heavy breakers. They are constructed of cowhide or canvas, 

 yet are as strong and seaworthy as a much more substantially 

 built craft. Most of these curraghs are four-oared, but each 



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