NEW HAVEN WHEEL COMPANY. 



B — Is the square bed of axle, conforming in shape and size to the common 

 axle. 



A — Is the neck, its diameter equal to the cornerwise thickness of the bed. 



O — Is the arm or bearing ; its diameter being considerably greater than the neck. 



C— Is collar or sand band, of malleable iron, forced upon the neck. Enter- 

 ing between back end of hub and box, as shown, it helps to form the 

 annular recesses "If and N" to fill with spent grease and exclude 

 sand, grit, etc. 



1> — Is axle box of best quality gray iron. It is without taper inside and 

 outside and is forced into the malleable iron hub. This box has a 

 flange " e" cast solid inside near its front end and the leather washers 

 "/andgi" on either side cushion the end of the axle arm and the 

 flange "d" of the nut in either direction. 



-H^— Is axle nut of malleable iron, hollow as shown, and screwed into the 

 hollow end of axle arm. 



I — Is malleable iron cap screwing on end of box, preventing loss of axle 

 nut or escape of lubricant and excluding all dirt or grit. 



G — Is supply of grease filling hollow of arm. By removing cap I, insert 

 key through "j" in the nut into socket in piston "P" and turning 

 forward the grease is expelled through "7i'' and along groove in top 

 of arm to the bearing. To use oil remove the piston "P" entirely, 

 clean out all grease from the chamber and holes in top and bottom, 

 put on the wheel screw in the nut and with ordinary oiler inject the 

 oil through "J" in nut whence it will run to tlie bearing. In using 

 oil the leather washers "/ and gr" should be thick enough to prevent 

 end play but not bind. In using grease the washer or packing shown 

 in the sand collar may be omitted or not, and washers "/ and g" 

 should be free enough to allow a little end play. 



These axles are made right and left the same as others. The wheels are 

 not, but the caps on front end of hubs are all threaded right hand. Other- 

 wise all corresponding parts in each size are made interchangeable. 



We prefer and advise but little dish in our wheels. Our spokes are 

 driven quite firm and will not draw much in tiring, so do not "draught" 

 the rim too much. Set the axle with very little if any front gather, as the 

 arm is straight. Set the bottom of arms so as to give " plumb spoke" as in 

 other wheels. Do not heat the axles near the collars— give the set in the 

 center. When ready to grease screw out the piston P, carefully clean the 

 same and the grease chamber to get all sand and grit out of the threads ; 

 also the collar, the hub and all parts. Now fill the chamber full of grease, 

 screw in the piston 1 inch to lir inch from the end, far enough to let the axle 

 nut be screwed well home. Put on wheel, screw in the nut securely, insert 

 the key through y and turn forward three or four revolutions, spinning the 

 wheel at same time. 



It is important to see that the foregoing instructions are complied 

 with. Watch the ninning carefully the first few days or week, then turn 

 out a little fresh grease upon the arm, after which every two to four weeks 

 will be often enough to turn out more. Too much will show at the collar. 

 A little care and experience will be your best guides in this. 



Getting started off all right will be a great saving in the future and 

 afford much satisfaction in all respects. 



