Chinde to Blantyre 



soon as it was light enough for navigation and 

 steamed up the Chinde river, at this point a quarter 

 of a mile broad, with high reed-grown banks, over 

 which we could see nothing of the surrounding 

 country. 



About 9 A.M. we entered the Zambesi proper, 

 where the scenery changed for the better; there 

 was little cultivation, but here and there we passed 

 clumps of bananas against a background of dark 

 forest ; no animal life was to be seen at first. All 

 rivers have their characteristics. The Zambesi is 

 beautiful and interesting in its way, and reminded 

 us of the rivers in the Punjaub. The current was 

 fairly strong, the water low, and sandbanks every- 

 where, making navigation difficult. Our ''reis" 

 steered by the appearance of the water, and when 

 in doubt kept the crew sounding with long poles 

 provided for the purpose; occasionally a bank was 

 struck, and then all hands poled vigorously to shove 

 us off" again. 



After weeks of preparation before leaving home, 

 procuring outfit and stores, and subsequently the 

 continual movement of an ocean-going steamer, 

 the rest and peace of the river was delightful. 



There was plenty of life: natives fishing or 

 dodging about in their dug-out canoes ; small barges 

 with thatched roofs over them dropping down 

 stream ; an occasional sternwheeler, with the usual 

 lighters alongside, laden with cotton, rice, sugar, 

 and other merchandise. We saw a Portuguese 

 gunboat, also a number of birds and numerous 



crocodiles lying on the sandbanks. A shot one, 



7 



