A Thousand Miles in a Machilla 



considerable climb before we could reach the frontier 

 fort of Melangani, we were up betimes, and every- 

 one was on the road by 5.30 a.m., our preparations 

 having been materially assisted by a beautiful moon 

 just off the full, which made everything almost as 

 light as day. In the early dawn we passed through 

 several sleeping villages, offshoots of the Chiole 

 Mission. Against many of the huts great bundles 

 of cotton were leaning, neatly covered, and propped 

 up by the forked sticks in which they are carried, 

 both for protection and support. 



The morning was fresh, the air perfect, the forest 

 looked beautiful in the dim morning light, every- 

 thing glistening with dew. I could not see the 

 sunrise, as we were travelling due west and I had 

 my back to it, but I lay in my machilla and watched 

 the light becoming brighter and brighter; and not 

 knowing what was before me, congratulated myself 

 on the excellent progress we were making. Alas ! 

 my rejoicings were premature. 



Our route should have taken us to Ncheu Boma, 

 and thence by an excellent high road up the 

 mountain to Fort Melangani. For some unex- 

 plained reason there was a disinclination among 

 some of our men to visit Ncheu, and ** Cooky " 

 declared that he knew a much better way and 

 a short cut to the high road which would avoid 

 the boma. " Cooky's " vagaries as a guide were 

 still unknown to us, so that we submitted our- 

 selves to his leadership like lambs, and neglected 

 to procure a local guide. About 7.30 we halted 

 for breakfast, and after a short stay on we went 



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