A Thousand Miles in a Machilla 



We followed the Luambwa until its junction with 

 the Magangazi ; here two natives, with dogs and 

 spears, told us that their village was just opposite, 

 and advised us to cross the river ; this we did, at a 

 place where it was full of water and the banks very 

 steep. The village was built in a clearing, a quarter 

 of a mile or so from the river bank. On the 

 edge of the adjacent gardens we pitched our camp, 

 getting our tents up just in time to avoid a heavy- 

 storm. 



My diary has the entry ** natives dull witted and 

 no reliable information to be obtained." We learnt 

 that the path led away from the Luambwa, and 

 therefore insisted on being given a guide. To this 

 there was at first some demur, and every possible 

 excuse was made, but eventually a man was forth- 

 coming on our promising to effect an exchange at 

 the first village we reached, and the practice once 

 established, we had no further trouble. The guide 

 on arriving at a village, usually escorted by Saidi, 

 ran in among the huts and soon returned with an 

 exchange; he was quite satisfied with some salt or 

 other small remuneration for his trouble. The next 

 village appeared to be the end of the world to these 

 people, and they had the greatest possible objection 

 to being taken any further. 



Poor Maso did not reach camp till late in the 

 afternoon, looking very feeble. I had some hot 

 porridge given him on arrival. He refused to 

 remain in one of the villages until better, as we 

 suggested; this was scarcely surprising, for these 

 local natives were of a different race, spoke another 



220 



