UPSALA 91 



if less imposing than that of Lund, is a fine building, 

 harmonious with the city's name of Upsalir, ' the lofty 

 halls ' ; and made grander by being built on a height, 1 in a 

 commanding and picturesque situation. It is approached 

 from the main streets bordering the canal by a flight of 

 steps leading through an archway framing delightful 

 pictures of the Peasant's church, more ancient than the 

 cathedral, and other buildings and parks, most of them 

 connected with the university. 



The cathedral is a very interesting building and 

 full of charm; but before hearing mine or any other 

 traveller's ravings for travellers always come back 

 raving from the North, though most of them do not 

 intend to visit Sweden again : ' the sea-sickness is too 

 horrid ' let us hear Fergusson, who never raves over 

 Swedish buildings. He begins his concise account of 

 Scandinavian architecture thus : ' No one who has 

 listened to all that was said and written in Germany 

 before the late Danish war can very well doubt that 

 when he passes the Eyder, going northward, he will 

 enter on a new architectural province. He must, how- 

 ever, be singularly deficient in ethnographical know- 

 ledge if he expects to find anything either original or 

 beautiful in a country inhabited by races of such purely 

 Aryan stock. If there is any Finnish or Lap blood in 

 the veins of the Swedes or Danes, it must have dried 

 up very early, for no trace of its effect can be detected 

 in any of their architectural utterances ; unless, indeed, 

 1 Mons domini. 



