TAKES HIS DOCTOR'S DEGREE IN HOLLAND 267 



rye is grown here, and at Aarhus one meets with vege- 

 tables cheap and in plenty. I have bought for next to 

 nothing the juiciest radishes I ever ate ; when at Chris- 

 tiania, they were tough as fir-cones, and at famine price. 

 It feels warm, but there are snow-scoopers to all the 

 trains; it looks peaceful, but the Danish camp is arrayed 

 with banners before a large square castle, built in the 

 aggravated-barn style. The black and white cross-barred 

 thatched houses of the peasantry look more comfortable, 

 and group prettily into villages, among which the storks 

 move about with stately familiarity. 



How soon one sees proofs of the greater prosperity, 

 in actual coin, of the people here over the Northern 

 Scandinavians ! They wear much more j ewellery if the 

 Danish filigree can be called jewellery than the further 

 Hyperboreans wear : many more rings and bracelets 

 trash, if you will, and these things look like it messing 

 is their name for it ; but even trash shows money to 

 spare, and all appearance breathes of Jutland's mo- 

 notonous fertility and middle-class ease ; not amounting 

 to wealth, with its splendour, its picturesqueness and 

 wickedness. This is such a virtuous-looking land, dull 

 with the decorous domestic virtues, upon which, how- 

 ever, a fine building, or a fine character, shows to the 

 greatest advantage. The people are withal as fearful as 

 the Germans of fresh air, even now in June. The lake 

 scenery of northern Scandinavia is continued through 

 Denmark, though the banks, set in sunny colza meadows, 

 are softer and more sleepy. But here the fir trees are 



