288 THROUGH THE FIELDS WITH LINNAEUS 



It shows what all Holland would be but for the capital 

 supplied by commerce. At Krops Wolds the land 

 improves into pasture ; but these wolds and fens are no 

 better farmed than ours were in the days of the Hep- 

 tarchy. I clo not suppose Linngeus wandered as far as 

 Krops Wolds, perhaps not farther than Zwolle, of whose 

 nine gates only the picturesque Sassenpoort remains. 



All this was rambling for pleasure and research in 

 the interval of waiting till he knew whether he were 

 an M.D. or not. Now he had to travel in real earnest 

 and for his life. Scarcely a copper dollar remained he 

 says not one ; therefore we may conclude he had only 

 some very small change. The Swedes packed their 

 papers and trophies, slung their new showy green-and*- 

 pink hats, put on their old ones for use, and tramped 

 to Amsterdam. 



' Men think to mend their condition by a change of 

 circumstances. They might as well hope to escape from 

 their shadows.' 1 The very countrywomen, with their 

 gold ornaments and broad-frilled lace caps, were too 

 wealthy for our young doctors to consort with. Nobody 

 knew them to be learned men, unless by recognition of 

 the dazzling doctors' hats : they knew nothing of the 

 mental treasures these poor tramps carried with them. 



They followed on the road lined with brushwood, 

 behind which a silvery line proclaims the Zuyder Zee, 

 until the land breaks into hedges and falls into water- 

 meadows, and meres replace the bogs. The land here 

 1 Froude. 



