SOFT CHEESES. 207 



is placed in a form in a thin layer, and over the top of the layer is 

 strewn a quantity of powdered, moldy bread with its thousands of 

 spores. Over this is placed another layer of curd with more 

 mold spores; then a third layer of curd over all. The mold is thus 

 planted within the cheese. The whole is then pressed by~moderate 

 pressure in a form. After a few days the cheese becomes hard 

 enough to be removed from the form and is next placed upon a 

 machine which punches it full of holes by means of small needles. 

 The purpose of this is to allow air to enter into the center of the 

 cheese, thus furnishing the molds in the center with the air they need 

 for growth. The cheese is then put into the ripening room, where 

 the molds develop, growing primarily within the cheese. As 

 the molds grow they develop a peculiarly peppery, piquant taste, 

 which is characteristic of the Roquefort cheese. Just before the 

 cheese is fully ripe it tastes bitter; but this taste disappears as the 

 final flavor develops. A good Roquefort cheese is only possible 

 when there is a luxuriant growth of these molds within the cheese, 

 no surface growth being allowed. 



The successful manufacture of the Roquefort cheese in the 

 United States is yet to come. There seems to be no reason why 

 a cheese cannot be made in this country which, if ripened by the 

 Roquefort mold, will have the Roquefort flavor; but it is not likely 

 that a real Roquefoit can ever be made in America because, the 

 typical Roquefort is made of sheep's milk, and it is doubtful if 

 Americans will ever be content to raise sheep and milk them. Stilton 

 and Gorgonzola cheeses are, however, made from cow's milk and 

 ripened by the same mold that is found in the Roquefort. These 

 cheeses can certainly be made in this country. Stilton has already 

 been made in Canada, and there is no reason why its manufacture 

 cannot be undertaken and developed in the United States. 



The Limburger Cheese. This represents a type of cheese in 

 which molds play no part in the ripening, but bacteria are the 

 primary and perhaps the sole agents. 



After being drained in a mold until firm enough to be handled 

 the cheeses are placed in a ripening cellar. Every few days they 

 are removed from the shelves and rubbed over with some liquid, 



