170 PRACTICAL PLANT PROPAGATION 



if the stock is distinctly larger, the cion should be placed so that the 

 cambiums are in contact on one side. The graft is held and tied with 

 raffia which should be previously cut in ten- to twelve-inch lengths. 



As soon as they are grafted the plants are watered and placed 

 in the grafting case with a temperature of 80 degrees. Close the sashes 

 tightly and leave for five days Then reduce the temperature to 75 

 degrees. Keep the case closed except when tending the plants Some 

 plants will unite in 10 days. After 15 days a little air may be admitted, 

 a pot label being inserted under the edge of the sash. When venti- 

 lating the house do not open the case. 



Do not take the plants from the case until they can stand having 

 the case open all day without wilting; this is usually 3 weeks When 

 they have been removed from the case keep the house closed for several 

 days. Then handle the plants like rooted cuttings. 



BUDDING ROSES 



Manetti stocks growing in the field are shield budded either in July, 

 when an active eye is used, or in August, with a dormant eye. The 

 early buds will start growth immediately. It will be Spring before the 

 August bud grows. 



Most Hybrid Teas, Hybrid Perpetuals, and Tea Roses for outdoor 

 use are budded rather than grafted. 



T. Sheward, in the Candian Florist, gives a good description of the 

 budding of Roses, as follows: 



"Bush Roses are budded low down, hah standards 2 feet high, 

 standards 4 feet, and if tall weeping standards are needed, 6 feet to 

 10 feet is about right. 



"In budding ordinary standards the stock is grown 4 feet high and 

 then topped. All the side buds are rubbed out with the exception of 

 two or three at the top according to the strength of the stock. See 

 Plate 92, pps. 168-169. Fig. 1 shows young wood about the size of a 

 pencil, which is the right size for budding. 



"In taking the buds use a shoot that has borne flowers, selecting 

 plump buds that show no signs of growing. Trim the leaves off, leav- 

 ing about one inch of leaf stalk. This is left as a handle. Slice off 

 the bud, beginning a half inch above and finishing a half inch below it. 

 (Fig. 11) Next remove the small piece from behind the bud with the 

 budding knife as shown in "A" and "B" in the illustration. 



"To begin work on the stock cut away the thorns where the bud 

 is to be inserted,* about two inches from the base of the shoot (fig. 2). 

 Next make a cross cut through the bark about a half inch long, and 

 another one inch long from this (see fig. 4). Gently raise the bark 

 at the cross cut with the budding knife (fig. 5), and insert the bud (fig. 

 6 and fig. 2), pushing it down with the leaf stalk (fig. 7), afterward 

 tying it firmly with raffia (figs. 3 and 8). 



"The stock shown at fig. 1 should have two buds inserted. If there 

 are three or more suitable shoots these should be budded, too. In 

 about three of four weeks examine the buds and if they have "struck" 

 or taken they will look plump and green (fig. 9) 



* Author's note. This is often done a day or two before the Roses are budded so that the 

 wood may heal sufficiently and yet not have time to really get hard as it does when 

 the thorns are removed too far ahead. 



