TREE AND SHRUB LIST 213 



RHODODENDRON Continued 



"Before putting in the layers, dig the soil up properly, and mix a 

 good deal of well rotted manure and some peat with it. This can also 

 be done the previous Fall, so that the manure is well rotted when the 

 layering is done. The portion of the branch which goes in the ground 

 should be trimmed of all its leaves. Layering consists in using a young 

 branch of a plant while it is still attached to the parent, by bending it 

 over and placing the middle part of the branch several inches under- 

 neath the soil, while the very end of the branch should stay in an up- 

 right position, above the soil. 



"Forked wooden pegs can be used to secure the branches, after which 

 nature, in many cases, will do the rest by establishing a root system 

 which in time will enable the layer to be separated from the parent, 

 and start life on its own account. In many instances, however, Nature 

 must be assisted, and the starting of the root-growth can be advanced 

 by twisting the branch, by taking off a ring of bark, by tying a thin 

 piece of wire around the branch, by splitting it, or by tonguing. Do not 

 take off too large a piece of bark when making use of that expedient, and 

 when tying a piece of thin wire around the branch take care that it is 

 in the center of the part that is covered by the soil, as roots form at 

 that point. 



"When tonguing, a slit is cut in the branch from below upward, mak- 

 ing the cut in the center of the branch, so that it is in the middle of the 

 part which is covered with soil. When bending the branch, the incision 

 opens to a certain extent, and when care is taken that the incision is 

 well surrounded by soil, it induces the formation of roots. 



"While some kinds of plants root more freely than others, in some 

 cases (especially in woody plants) it takes two years before they have 

 sufficient roots to be transplanted. 



"Only a very small part of the end of the branch should be allowed to 

 appear above the soil when the layers are planted. Pinching the buds 

 out of the tops is a great help in making the branches sprout from the 

 sides, and give stocky plants. When an unusually hot, dry Summer 

 prevails and the soil is dry, the layers must be given a thorough soaking 

 occasionally. Always bear in mind that Rhododendrons thrive best 

 in shady, moist places, and in a rich, loose soil." 



RHODOTYPOS. White Kerria. 



*SEEDS. A very free seeder. Even self-sows. Sow when ripened. 



CUTTINGS. Either hard or soft wood. Soft wood in Summer. 

 RHUS. Sumac. Smoke Tree. 



SEEDS. Sow in Autumn or stratify, especially of R. copallina, R. 

 glabra, R. cotinus, R. typhina and R. aromatica. 



CUTTINGS. Hard wood. 



ROOT CUTTINGS. Especially of R. typhina var. laciniata, the Fern- 

 leaved Sumac. Cut into three-inch lengths, bury in sand until 

 Spring, then set out in rows. 



LAYERS. Many species may be layered, especially R. cotinus. 

 RIBES. Currant. Gooseberry. 



SEEDS. Germinate readily. 



CUTTINGS. Hard wood. Make in Autumn. Best method for Currant. 



LAYERS. Mound layers, especially of Gooseberry (see fig. 47.) The 

 varieties may also be tip layered. 



BUDDING AND GRAFTING. Used with horticultural varieties. 



When tree or standard plants are wanted, strong stocks, such as 

 R. aureum, are used for the Currant, and perhaps R. rotundifolium, 

 the Round-leaved Gooseberry, would be useful for the Gooseberry 

 varieties. It is a strong, tall grower. 



