14 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. 



St. Petersburg, and ascending the Neva at Schlusselburg, 

 he entered on Lake Ladoga, and visited Konevits, 

 Hexholm, and Walamo : the first and the last of which 

 are holy islands, visited by hosts of pilgrims by which the 

 steamer was crowded, most being deck passengers. Many 

 of these were very sick, and strewn on the deck, it seemed 

 as if in many places they were lying three deep. A day 

 or half a day spent by the steamer at each place gave an 

 opportunity to such as chose to fulfil there the object of 

 their pilgrimage, and proceed with the steamer to the 

 next ; but if they preferred to do so, they could remain, 

 and proceed by the following steamer. At one of the 

 islands, which is covered with forest, no tree may be felled, 

 no animal slaughtered. Other restrictions similar in 

 character, but different in kind it may be, are in force at 

 other holy places subject to the Greek Church of Russia; 

 and yet . Well, at Konevits, a somewhat lugubrious- 

 looking priest took up his position by the side of the 

 vessel, and never left it while the vessel was in port. My 

 friend asked the captain what was the purpose of his 

 there keeping watch and ward, and he was informed that 

 the priest was stationed there by ecclesiastical authority 

 to watch, and afterwards to testify, that no one of the 

 monks had obtained brandy on board or from on board 

 the steamer : a precaution which may be commendable ; 

 but one which may naturally suggest a gibe at the expense 

 of the character of the consecrated men ; and allegations to 

 their prejudice in regard to sensual immoralities are 

 advanced in support of the gibe. 



He entered Finland by Hexholm, a little town beautifully 

 situated on the western shore of the lake a town of which 

 frequent mention is made in the old historical annals of 

 Finland. On the shores of Lake Ladoga, with its forest- 

 crowned hills and lovely valleys, one may feel as if trans- 

 ported to some one of the most lovely regions of the South. 



My route took me across Lake Ladoga in an easterly 

 direction to the mouth of the Svir, by which are conveyed 



