CULTIVATION, ETC. 201 



Cherry tree ; which, added to the fact that most trees have their 

 roots standing in stagnant cold water, induces tendency to disease 

 from the first. If, then, when about to plant Cherry trees, perfect 

 drainage is made, so that no water will stand for twenty-four hours 

 together about the roots, an application, on prairie soils, of sulphur 

 and finely broken or ground bones be made, the ground-work to suc- 

 cess will be performed. 



Situations sloping south will affect the producing of early bloom, 

 rendering less chance of fruit from effect of late vernal frosts, and 

 also render the tree more liable to second growth in the Fall, and thus 

 unfit it for the severe changes of temperature throughout Winter. 

 Northern exposures are recommended, but an eastern one we regard 

 best. The forenoon sun may excite circulation, but not as rapidly 

 as the mid-day, or from one to three o'clock, p. m. ; while there is, 

 also, more or less of moisture in a morning atmosphere, and none 

 in the afternoon ; the tree, also, has a chance to have its circulation 

 gradually checked ere the cold of night, which it has not when planted 

 on ground, sloping south, west, or north. When planting on either 

 of the last exposures, or on level land, let your tree slope to the south- 

 west, as the sun has less effect upon it in that position. 



Cultivation. In nursery rows, the earth in Spring should be first 

 turned away from the trees ; in about ten days it should again be 

 stirred and left nearly level, and so kept throughout the growing 

 season. In October it should be turned up toward the trees. The 

 plants budded last season should be cut back to within six inches of 

 the bud as soon as the same commences to swell strongly. The 

 buds, after having grown six to eight inches, should be tied up to the 

 stocks, and in June the stock should be cut with a slope downward 

 close to the bud. The second year, they should be headed back to 

 four feet, when some will throw out branches two feet from the 

 ground ; others, where headed back. The third year, they should be 

 transplanted. Throughout the West, on the rich prairie soils, it has 

 been found impolitic to hoe, or otherwise use any mode of culture 

 toward keeping the ground clean, after August; it induces second 

 growth, immature ripening of wood, and consequent injury in Winter. 

 Orchard and garden trees should be lightly spaded around in July, 

 and a quantity of mulch, or stones, laid over the roots. 



Pruning and Training. The Heart Cherry, as a standard, needs 

 little pruning except to cut away limbs liable to cross one another. 

 This is best done in July, when the cut, if made smooth; and close to 

 the body or large limb, will at once heal. If disposed to grow too 

 rapidly, dig around a tree, of say four inches in diameter, a circular 

 trench, three feet distant from the body of the tree, and two feet deep, 

 cutting off with a sharp spade every root and fibre outside that space. 

 And for every inch diameter, up to a tree twelve inches through, add 

 four inches distance of trench from tree. Often the top of the .tree 

 9* 



