228 PRUNING. 



tree for all ordinary, or it might be said for almost 

 any purpose, is rendered useless. In operating upon 

 such subjects, it is well to consider at what particular 

 point to cut the stem ; for the object in pruning, be 

 it observed, is to form a new top to constitute the 

 future tree. 



Broken and damaged branches requiring pruning 

 necessarily vary according to the different nature of 

 the case. In some cases the branch is cut off quite 

 close to the stem or trunk, and in others at various 

 distances from it ; but as far as possible the cut should 

 be done at a little above where another smaller branch 

 takes its rise. When this can be done, it renders 

 the mark less observable than it would otherwise be. 

 When it is impracticable to cut the injured branch 

 at least 3 or 4 feet from the trunk, it is better, for 

 appearance' sake, to cut it quite close ; but in doing so 

 two things should be kept in view namely, cutting 

 so as neither to leave a stump, like an artificial peg, 

 projecting from the stem, nor by incurring a hole in 

 the trunk by decay of the wounded part. To secure 

 the latter object dress smoothly, and paint so as to 

 prevent water entering the wound. 



Pruning with the Chisel and Mallet. For conduct- 

 ing this department of pruning, the long and short 

 handled chisels should usually be employed. The 

 short chisel is convenient of about 10 to 12 feet long, 

 and the long one 18 to 20 feet. The handles require 

 to be of the very best redwood pine, so as to be at 

 once both strong and light. It of course requires 

 two persons to do the work the one to hold and guide 

 the chisel, and the other to strike with the mallet. 

 Double tops thus pruned, especially on pines or firs, 

 require no dressing, as they are so high up on the tree 



