CHAP. II.] PORT UNDERWOOD. 61 



west these hills turn into the mainland, and the 

 hilly character of the coast gives way to a com- 

 paratively level country, which stretches towards 

 Cape Campbell, and is bounded by the snowy 

 mountains above mentioned. Here the Wairao, a 

 moderate-sized river, with a bar at its entrance, dis- 

 charges itself into Cloudy Bay. The quantity of 

 level land seems to be largest in the neighbourhood 

 of this river, and the surface is covered alternately 

 with fern and groves of high trees. 



We descended on a ridge of the hills to the head 

 of Port Underwood. On both sides of this ridge 

 the sea forms bays. On the right is a village, with 

 about sixty inhabitants, and the neighbourhood is 

 well cultivated. Nayti, the New Zealander who 

 accompanied us from England, found here many 

 brothers, which word, however, generally means 

 cousins. One of them, a very suspicious-looking 

 fellow, painted over and over with kokowai, never 

 let the tomahawk out of his' hands, and there was 

 an appearance of sly hostility in his manner ; indeed, 

 he was the only New Zealander who gave me any 

 apprehension, which was probably altogether un- 

 founded. Nayti, who was dressed in the best Bond- 

 street style, cut a pitiful figure ; civilization had 

 taught him nothing but to be ashamed of his rela- 

 tions. Observing his embarrassment, we withdrew 

 to some distance, leaving him to indulge his natural 

 feeling in hongi and tangi, or nose-rubbing and 

 crying. 



