CHAP. XXIV.] OF TONGARIRO. 347 



was absent on a war excursion to Wanganui, and 

 before he went he had laid a solemn " tapu " on the 

 mountain, and until his return they could not 

 grant us permission to ascend it. This " tapu " 

 was imposed in consequence of a European traveller 

 of the name of Bidwill having gone to the top 

 without permission, which had caused great vexa- 

 tion, as the mountain is held in traditional venera- 

 tion, and is much dreaded by the natives, being, as 

 they tell you, the " backbone of their Tupuna," or 

 great ancestor, and having a white head, like their 

 present chieftain. Mr. Bidwill has since published 

 a short account of his ascent in his 'Rambles in 

 New Zealand,' from which I will here give an ex- 

 tract, taking the liberty to alter the native ortho- 

 graphy as given by him : 



" One great peak of Tongariro slopes up from the 

 lake ; but while I was there I could never see the 

 top of it, in consequence of the quantity of vapour 

 always rolling up the side of the mountain from a 

 great many hot-springs which are visible on its 

 sides. From one of these a considerable stream of 

 water runs into the lake, but gets cold by the time 

 it reaches it. The side appeared quite barren, with 

 the exception of a small belt of wood about two- 

 thirds up the visible part of the mountain. Rotu- 

 Aire may be said to be the real source of the Wai- 

 kato, as the stream which runs out of it is called 

 by the natives; those which run into it are very 



