CHAP. VI.] THE " TAPU." 103 



prevent us, or the Christian natives who were with 

 us, from breaking that " tapu," and walking on the 

 road. 



Near Manukao I once lighted the fern ; the fire 

 ran rapidly towards the hills, where, unknown to 

 me, was the burial-ground of a large tribe of Wai- 

 kato. Before I approached the village some men 

 passed me running towards the fire, which was about 

 fifteen miles distant, in order to extinguish it. In 

 the village there was great crying and distress about 

 the conflagration. I pleaded my ignorance, acknow- 

 ledged my error, and settled the affair with a fine of 

 three shirts. The fire was extinguished before the 

 remains of their dead were consumed ; and we have 

 ever since been the best friends. 



A very strict "tapu" prevented my ascending the 

 principal cone of the Tongariro, a volcano in the 

 centre of the island, it being considered, symbolically 

 I presume, to be the backbone of their greatest an- 

 cestor, and having a head as white as that of the 

 present chief, who was absent on a war party to 

 Cook's Straits. After much negotiation, however, 

 they would have allowed me to break the " tapu" on 

 paying four sovereigns ; but I had not the money with 

 me, and I in vain offered merchandise instead. 



A strict " tapu " forbids the use of the remains of 

 an old house for cooking, and makes it unlawful 

 to eat food that has been cooked with such fuel. 

 Travellers often disregard this custom ; but, although 

 the natives do not always quarrel about it, they be- 



