THE ORANGE. 53 



to see if the buds would start; however, they did not, and the 

 continuing suckering caused the trees to die. 



A NEW METHOD. 



Meeting with such difficulty in making buds grow on old 

 wood, led me to carry on a series of experiments, to find, if 

 possible, a way by which buds would grow in old and large 

 limbs ; that if this was accomplished, it would do away with 

 having to cut the tops and wait for the new wood to grow, 

 in order to bud into it. 



THE METHOD. 



The very largest buds were selected, those having a large 

 thorn (Figure No. 7). The bud was cut, leaving into it con- 

 siderable wood, and at least one inch long, taking from the 

 limb it was cut at least one half of the wood ; then with the 

 sharp point of the knife the wood in the bud was gouged out. 



Great care was used not to run the 

 end of the knife into the bark of the 

 bud on either side, the wood being care- 

 fully removed, leaving but a very small 

 portion of it, only enough to hold the 

 thorn firmly to the bark of the bud, as 

 shown in Figure No. 7, A. It was then 

 inserted into the tree, and then wound 

 tightly with twine. The end of the Figure No. 7! 



thorn should not be cut, as it causes 



the bud to wilt and die. The result of this experiment was 

 very satisfactory and successful. This was done in spring, 

 summer, and fall; the buds being large and plump, made 

 good growth and not two per cent were lost. This budding 

 is best to be done in the spring, as there is at this time an 

 abundance of sap. The buds will also take better than when 

 inserted later. About an inch of the bark above the bud in 

 a circle can be removed to force the sap into the bud, which 

 will start before the top is cut away. The top is left on the 

 tree to protect it. The twine should be left on the trees as 



