54 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 



long as possible, because the bark is thicker on a large tree 

 than on a small one; and if the twine is removed too soon the 

 bark will open, caused by the action of the atmosphere, the 

 bud will be left exposed and will dry. However, great care 

 should be taken not to leave it on too long, as it will cut into 

 the tree. If upon examination it is found that it is working 

 into the bark, it should be loosened, untied, and tied (with the 

 same twine) over again. If this work is done in the summer 

 or fall, the buds must be left to lie dormant through the win- 

 ter. In early spring the top of the tree is removed, and the 

 bud allowed to grow; but in no case should the entire top be 

 removed. At least one large limb should be left to force the 

 sap into the buds, and all the lower brush on the trunk should 

 be left to protect it from being sunburned. This is, however, 

 removed as soon as the buds are able to shade the trunk and 

 take from it the sap flowing. When these large limbs are re- 

 moved, the cuts should immediately be painted with at least 

 two coats of the best rubber paint, to protect them from crack- 

 ing, and so that they may heal and become healthy. 



THORNLESS BUDS. 



The advantage in budding with thornless varieties is that 

 the wood in the bud can be removed with great ease, which is 

 a great advantage in budding, as when the wood is removed 

 nearly every bud will take ; that is when the wood in the bud 

 is removed without having to use a knife. There being no 

 thorn in the bud, the wood is removed from it as easy as the 

 wood in a peach bud; it also leaves the bark of the bud 

 uninjured. This can not be done with a thorny bud, as the 

 thorn is attached to the wood in the bud, therefore the neces- 

 sity of cutting it out. 



GRAFTING CITRUS TREES. 



This method is entirely disregarded in this State, Budding 

 being surer, and the most simple and best. Grafting citrus 

 trees is not recommended. 



