41 



ATHENS. 



Athen. of the pedestals and inscriptions are found scattered 

 ^ -v ' in d ffeirnt quarters, and often half buried in the 

 earth. 



The temple of Theseus is still nearly entire, except 

 the roof, which is modern. The sculptures on the 

 outside are almost entirely defaced, but those which 

 adorn the friezes on the inside, are in betteripreser- 

 vation. They represent the exploits of that hero. 

 His combat with a Centnur is particularly distin- 

 ct!. 

 Of places which derive their interest from the 

 scenes which were acted in them, considerable re- 

 mains may also be observed. In the hill of Areo- 

 pagus, where sat that famous tribunal, we may still 

 discover, the steps cut in the rock, by which it was 

 ascended ; the seats of the judges ; and opposite to 

 them, those of the accuser and accused. This hill is 

 bow a burying-place for the Turks, and is covered 

 with their tombs. 



The Pnyx, or place for the assembly of the peo- 

 ple, which lies near the Areopagus, is still nearly in 

 its original condition. In it are still seen the pulpit 

 for the orators cut out in the rock ; the seats of the 

 secretaries, who drew up the decrees ; and, in the two 

 angles, those of the officers, who imposed silence, 

 and published the result of the public deliberations. 

 Niches arc also seen, where were placed the offerings 

 of those who obtained from the people either favour 

 or acquittal. Awful sensations are inspired by the 

 view of this once grand and busy scene, whence is- 

 sued those schemes, which changed so often the face 

 of the ancient world. 



We may still trace the area of the Stadium, built 

 by Herodes Atticus entirely of white marble, and on 

 which the Athenian youth were employed in those 

 ujymnastic exercises so much valued by the Greeks. 

 The site of the Lyceum is discoverable by a number 

 of loose stones scattered about. A modern house 

 and garden now cover the site of the Academy. 

 Within its precincts the walks of the Peripatetics 

 may yet be traced ; and many olive trees remain, of a 

 most venerable antiquity. 



The long walls are entirely demolished ; but their 

 foundations may still be traced under the shrubs 

 which cover the plain. The Piraus, another Athens, 

 retains scarcely a memorial of its ancient greatness. 

 Only a few scattered fragments of columns are found 

 in it, as well as in the two neighbouring harbours 

 of Munychia and Phalerum. A few small craft now 

 frequent this famed port, for the accommodation of 

 which there is a paltry custom-house, 

 luhabi- Athens contains now from eight to ten thousand 



lants of inhabitants, one-fourth of whom are Turks, and the 

 Athens. rcst Greeks. The latter enjoy a milder lot, than 

 in most other places subject to Turkish dominion. 

 They have had recourse to an expedient not very ho- 

 nourable, that of chusing for their protector the Kis- 

 lar Aga, or chief of the black eunuchs, to whom they 

 pay a tribute of thirty thousand crowns. They have 

 been known also to rise and inflict bloody vengeance 

 on their oppressors. They are distinguished both 

 by address, and by a spirit of liberty, rarely now ob- 

 servable among their countrymen. liven some forms 

 of their ancient constitution are etill preserved. Chan- 



Exertions 

 of Lord El- 

 gin to reco- 

 ver the re- 

 mains of 

 Athenian 

 sculpture 

 and archi- 

 tecture. 



dler, on entering Athens, was met by an archon. The Athons. 

 Turks have here abated somewhat of their usual lord- 

 liness and austerity, and mixed more intimately with 

 the subject people. 



The Greeks have an archbishop, who enjoys a 

 tolerable revenue ; and no less than two hundred 

 places of worship. 



By far the most recent and accurate survey of 

 Athens, is that made by Lord Elgin, during his em- 

 bassy at Constantinople. The detailed result will, 

 we trust, in some form or other, be given to the pub- 

 lic j in the meantime, the following notice may be 

 interesting : 



Even before leaving England, Lord Elgin had un- 

 derstood, that the most acceptable service which he 

 could render to the arts, would be to procure casts 

 of the most interesting remains of sculpture and ar- 

 chitecture, which still existed in Athens. But the 

 expense of engaging artists from this country was 

 too great for an individual to undertake, and an ap- 

 plication for assistance from government proved in- 

 effectual. In Sicily, however, where he touched on 

 his passageto Constantinople, he was more fortunate : 

 To the most eminent artist of that island, the trou- 

 bled state of Italy enabled him to add others, of very 

 uncommon abilities, from Rome. In this manner he 

 engaged six artists ; one general painter, one figure 

 painter, two formatori for the making of the casts, 

 and two architects. With these Lord Elgin, after 

 much difficulty, obtained from the Turkish govern- 

 ment permission to proceed to Athens. They spent 

 three years there, mutually assisting and controuling 

 the operations of each other, and taking measurements 

 and representations of every object which seemed de- 

 serving of attention. 



The measurements have been made in the utmost 

 detail, and with extreme care and minuteness. From 

 the rough drafts, plans, elevations, and finished draw- 

 ings of the most remarkable objects have been exe- 

 cuted. In these, all the sculpture has been restored, 

 with uncommon taste and ability. The bas reliefs, 

 besides, on the different temples, have been drawn, 

 with perfect accuracy, in their present state of muti- 

 lation and decay. Most of these bas reliefs, and all 

 the characteristic architectural features in the diffe- 

 rent monuments now remaining at Athens, have been 

 moulded ; and the casts and moulds being conveyed 

 to London, are now in his lordship's possession. 

 Picturesque views of Athens, as well as various parts 

 of Greece, have been taken by one of the most emi- 

 nent painters of Europe. 



Besides these models and representations, Lord 

 Elgin collected also numerous pieces of Athenian 

 sculpture in statues, reliefs, capitals, cornices, friezes, 

 &c. The advantages which he possessed enabled 

 him to accumulate a greater collection of these than 

 exists elsewhere in Europe. In making this collec- 

 tion, he was strongly animated by seeing the destruc- 

 tion into which these remains were sinking, through 

 the influence of Turkish barbarism. Some statues 

 in the voal/cum of the Parthenon had been pounded 

 down for mortar, on account of their affording the 

 whitest marble within reach ; and this mortar was em- 



