THE FUNDAMENTALS OF A GOOD HEDGE 



35 



The Garland Syringa (Phila- 

 delphus coronarius) makes a 

 tall-growing, informal hedge. 



The European beech is 

 useful where a tall hedge is 

 desired. The honey locust is 

 a good defensive hedge and 

 the Lombardy and Bolleana 

 poplars allow close planting 

 and form a tall screen. The 

 Osage orange has the same 

 value as the honey locust but 

 does not grow as tall. 



The most desirable species 

 of this group are: box- 

 wood, arbor- vitas, hem- 

 lock, white spruce, com- 

 mon red cedar, yew and 

 dwarf juniper. 



Spring and fall are 

 the two seasons for 

 planting, but, if possible, 

 spring is to be preferred. 



Before planting, the 

 soil should be thoroughly 

 turned over to a depth of 

 two or three feet and two 

 or three feet wide. Mix 

 in some well-rotted ma- 

 nure, and if the soil is 

 very poor, change it en- 

 tirely for a rich, black 

 loam. This can all be 

 done in the fall and thus 

 save time in the spring 

 when only the actual 

 planting will be left to do. 

 The distance apart at 

 which the individual 

 plants should be set in 

 will vary from twelve to 

 eighteen inches for shrubs 

 and from eight to twelve 

 feet for tree hedges. Do 

 not plant too closely if you 

 wish your hedge to look 

 compact with plenty of 

 lateral shoots. The roots 

 should be carefully 

 covered during the proc- 

 ess of planting and 

 spread out when set in 

 the ground and the soil 

 around the roots should 

 be thoroughly firmed by 

 ramming or by treading. 



Immediately after 

 planting, plants like 

 privet which stand heavy 

 cutting should be pruned 



A YEW HEDGE 



These hedges have many admirers and are unique for dividing rose gardens 

 and flower gardens. 



COLORADO BLUE SPRUCE 

 For seaside planting the Colorado spruces have proved themselves of high value 



By Courtesy of J. Horace McFarland Company. 



ALTHEA HEDGE 

 This is especially desirable for surrounding the flower garden or vegetable garden 

 not trim them in the summer. If you plant them a foot apart they will make a 

 thick, free-flowering hedge this year. 



back severely, sometimes to a 

 few inches from the ground. 

 This will insure the formation 

 of a compact growth on all 

 sides of the hedge and a better 

 adaptation of the plant to the 

 soil. The following year the 

 plants should be cut a little less 

 heavily, and by the third year 

 the permanent shaping may be 

 commenced. In the case of 

 privet it should be clipped three 

 times a year. 



The after -care of the hedge 

 consists in keeping out all 

 weeds and in trimming 

 the plants to induce 

 bushy growth near the 

 base. This is very im- 

 portant, particularly with 

 young hedges. The 

 hedge should also receive 

 frequent cleaning so no 

 insects can gather there 

 and remain to despoil the 

 growth. 



General trimming of 

 established medium-sized 

 hedges is necessary at 

 frequent intervals in 

 order to insure the forma- 

 tion of lateral shoots for 

 a dense appearance. The 

 work can best be done in 

 the early spring while the 

 sap is still down. The 

 formal hedge of privet 

 and similar species 

 should always be cut in 

 some form of a triangle 

 in order to obtain the 

 greatest exposure of sur- 

 face to sun and light, 

 thereby securing a more 

 vigorous growth of all 

 parts of the hedge. The 

 loose hedge of such a 

 species as the barberry 

 needs just to be kept 

 down to uniform shape 

 by the removal of strag- 

 glers. Where high stumps 

 are seen protruding from 

 old hedges, they should 

 be removed and the more 

 vigorous younger shoots 

 allowed to take their 

 place. All these large 

 wounds and cuts should 

 be covered with coal tar 



Do 

 solid 



