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AMERICAN FORESTRY 



A. With reference to moving your trees, I beg to say that 

 the best outfits for this purpose may be had from Messrs. 

 Isaac Hicks & Sons, Westbury, Long Island, New York, or from 

 Messrs. Lewis & Valentine, Roslyn, Long Island, New York. 

 Both of these firms operate in the Middle West, or send their 

 apparatus there, and I would suggest your writing them direct. 



Q. I am desirous of obtaining about 3000 trees (black or 

 yellow locust) to be used as a wind break for several plots of 

 white pine. Where can they be bought? How long before they 

 mature to fence post size and will they grow in New York State 

 climate and in a dry sandy loam. The New York State Con- 

 servation Commission does not handle them. 



L. B. G., Gray, New York. 



A. I am very much interested in your inquiry, and note 

 that you desire about 3000 black or yellow locust to plant as a 

 windbreak to protect white pines. I would not like to recommend 

 this tree for your purpose in your location, as I am afraid it 

 would kill back. The soil condition would be all right, but I 

 am afraid the climate would be too severe. The best thing you 

 could use would be more white pine, or red pine, which would 

 cost you just about as much. We are not, however, recommend- 

 ing the planting of white pine anywhere at present, except under 

 the most rigid inspection, and then never in states where there 

 are areas infected by the white pine blister rust, and this is 

 true of New York. Perhaps you have read or heard something 

 of this, which is a dread disease attacking the white and five- 

 leaved pines of the country and seriously threatens their extinc- 

 tion. My best advice to you would be to write Mr. C. R. Pettis, 

 Superintendent of State Forests, at Albany, put your proposition 

 right up to him, and be guided by his advice. He will tell you 

 what is best to plant under the circumstances and where you can 

 secure it, and' you will be perfectly safe in following his sugges- 

 tions. Let us know if we can help you any further. 



to enable this main branch to continue growing or shall I be 

 obliged to cut it off, which I suppose would prevent it from 

 growing again. R. M. S., Cincinnati, Ohio. 



A. I would suggest pruning your transplanted oaks hard. 

 Cut in every branch several feet and do it any time. Oak trees 

 can best be moved in spring. Oak trees moved from the forest 

 should have their long tap roots shortened, but it is too late for 

 that now. 



As to your young black walnut, try putting grafting wax in 

 split part and tie the affected part with burlap. It may heal 

 next spring. Should you be obliged to cut it off eventually you 

 can bend another twig over and tie it to a stick in order to 

 train it to form a new leader. It will later on become strong 

 and erect enough to form a new leader. 



Q. There stands in my front lawn a balsam which was 

 planted by me about fifteen years ago, and has, until the last 

 year, been a vigorous, thrifty tree. Last summer I noticed that 

 the needles or leaves of the tree were turning red on the upper 

 half of the tree and that very little new growth appeared, and 

 at present, through the action of the wind, these dead leaves are 

 dropping off. I know of no cause for this unless it be the fact 

 that for quite a time during last winter it was laden with sleet 

 and snow. No abrasions or other injury are apparent anywhere. 

 Can you tell me where the trouble comes from and how to remedy 

 it if I am not already too late? I prize the tree quite highly 

 and would fully appreciate any information which will enable 

 me to re-establish its former healthy condition. 



C. F. C, Hillsboro, Wisconsin. 

 A. Replying to your inquiry, it would be hard to tell from 

 just a description what is the trouble with your balsam. I 

 would advise that you spread two or three inches of well- 

 rotted manure around the base of the tree at the present time, 

 and dig the same into the ground in the early spring. Have 

 the manure extend outward as far as the branches of the tree. 

 The tree has probably suffered for water and food. If possible, 

 it may also help to cut off the top of the tree to the extent of 

 a few feet. This will make the tree grow more bushy and 

 compact and decrease the requirement for moisture. A good 

 book for you to have would be Levison's Studies of Trees. This 

 sell for $1.75. The chapter on " Diseases and Requirements of 

 Trees " would be helpful to you. 



Q. Where can I procure a caliper rule for measuring trees? 

 If you know where one can be purchased I would appreciate 

 your kindness if you would furnish me the name and address. 

 S. J. C, Mount Vernon, New York. 



A. A caliper rule can be procured from Keuffel & Esser 

 Company, 127 Fulton St., New York City. Telephone, 80 

 Beekman. 



Q. Can you inform me whether there is any Suffolk County 



or Long Island Forestry organization in existence, or whether 



any organization is interesting itself in the forest fire question 



in this locality, or whether this subject is in your jurisdiction. 



E. C. H., East Hampton, New York. 



A. Replying to your recent inquiry, I beg to say that in 

 Suffolk County, Long Island, Mr. Townsend Cox, Jr., of Setauket, 

 Long Island, has formed a local Forestry association, interesting 

 itself in local tree protection. Also, Mr. Charles M. Higgins, of 

 271 Ninth Street, Brooklyn, has done about as much as anyone 

 in preventing forest fires on Long Island, and has published a 

 little booklet. The Nassau County Association, with head- 

 quarters at Mineola, L. I., is beginning to interest itself in 

 forest fires. I am sending you a special report on State 

 Forest Organization, with special reference to fire protection, 

 which will, I am sure, be of value to you. Mr. J. J. Levison, of 

 Sea Cliff, Long Island, New York, incorporated miles of fire 

 lanes and other systems of forest-fire prevention all over Nassau 

 County on Long Island. There are no other bodies specially 

 interested. 



Q. I transplanted several red oak trees from the woods this 

 fall, some of them about 20 feet high and with long side 

 branches. Will you kindly give me some information in regard 

 to the best, way to prune them and at the same time stating 

 whether this should be done now. 



I have a young black walnut tree on which the tip end of 

 the main top branch has been split. Is there anything I can do 



Q. I have a swamp of about an acre, the surface of which 

 is about 12 inches above the water of the nearby lake when the 

 water is at its highest level. The ground is rather soggy, and 

 the soil is very rich. Are there any conifers which will grow 

 under these conditions? I would like to make the place resemble 

 a natural tamarack swamp as nearly as possible, and eventually 

 to grow in it Moccasin flowers, Pitcher-plants, Swamp lilies, etc. 

 To do this I must get shade, and I should like to get a variety 

 of conifer to grow, if possible. Any advice which you may be 

 able to give in reference to varieties, methods of planting, etc., 

 will be very welcome." 



A. S. B., Minneapolis, Minnesota. 



A. You could best use the tamarack and the black or 

 swamp spruce, under the conditions you describe. The latter 

 may not make more than a very small tree, and the tamarack 

 will probably outstrip it, but the combination of colors will be 

 an advantage even though they do not compare in height. Farther 

 north, of course, the black spruce makes a larger tree than the 

 tamarack, and it may be that under yoar particular conditions 

 they will attain about equal size. There will be no special care 

 required in the planting of these trees, other than that ordinarily 

 exercised in the transplanting of coniferous evergreens. I am 

 sending you under separate cover a bulletin of the Department 

 of Agriculture on tree planting on rural school grounds, which 

 will be helpful to you. 



